Some Days in London

I took the train from Ilkley into Leeds and changed for the fast train to London.  There is a lot of chat about the need for very fast trains in the UK along the lines of the TGV in France.  This seems all a bit silly. The UK trains are very good and given the distances between most of the big cities, including London to Leeds and London to Manchester , are relatively short the need to go faster to save 30 to 40 minutes on  trips seems to be not very cost effective.

I made it back in time to London for a meal prepared by my hosts.  How good are they?

The next day I met up with my younger cousins and their children at the Tate Britain. It was a family day out in London.  One half of the family lives in Austria.  The parents are totally bilingual with perfect German and English.  The father is English and teaches business at university in Austria.  The mother is Austrian and is an English and History teacher. The children speak English at home and German at school.  The advantage of being so skilled in languages is palpable.  It highlighted that old joke.  I am Australian on other words mono-lingual.

We walked through the Lowry exhibition.  I suggest that anyone that has the chance to see it do so.  It chronicles a very important part of English history from the between the wars to the mid-sixties.  He focuses on the ‘North’, primarily the northwest, but also the northeast, where my family come from.  Over the period he painted, England’s heavy industries including coal mining, steel making, ship building and textiles declined.  As these industries were concentrated in the ‘North’, this was the area that was most effected.  The ‘soft south’ as my Dad called it, sailed on unaffected.

The next day, I spent ‘up West’.  I love the West End of London.  That nigh I met up with my host in his local pub.  I was quizzed by a mate of my host about my LEJOG ride.  This bloke is planning to do it to mark his 60^th.  He may do it in 3 stages – returning to London for some R&R after stages 1&2.  Not a bad idea.

On Saturday afternoon, I went to a matinee performance of ‘Let it Be’.  This is one of the many ‘duke box’ musicals in the West End theatres.  Others include, Jersey Boys, We will Rock You and Mama Mia.  As the name suggests ‘Let it Be’  is the Beetles stuff.  There isn’t much other than the music.  Being a matinee, there was an eclectic audience including youngsters who stood and danced through most of the performance.  When ‘Twist and Shout’ was played the whole audience got up and danced.  A young mother on isle at the bottom of the dress circle near me had some particular good moves.

On Monday, I took the opportunity to meet up with my erstwhile Foreign Affairs colleague who is finishing her posting at the Australian High Commission later this year.  It is always a pleasure to meet up with her.

This was followed by yet another great meal provided by my hosts.

The next day I pack up the bike and headed off to London Bridge to catch the train to Dover and the ferry across to Calais.

I must mention that during the time I was in London, the 4^th Ashes Test was being played in Chester- le – street in county Durham.  There was a chance that I would go to that Test.  Again, it was a good one to missed.  Australia lost by 74 runs on the fourth day.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjHGGq9r

Serious Drinking on a Ferry

The ferry from Lerwick in the Shetlands  to Aberdeen was quite an experience.  The majority of the passengers were blokes, mainly in their forties and older, that either worked in the offshore oil industry or the fish farms.  Both industries work on a FIFO basis.  Unlike the Australian mining industry where the F is for fly – the F is for ferry.  They work for 12 days and have 12 days off.  While at wor they can’t drink.  This prohibition ceases when they board the ferry.  These blokes certainly give it a nudge when they get started.

I was in a 4 berth cabin, with two other berths booked.  I saw one other bloke.  The second didn’t come to the cabin.  I suspect was one the many who stay in the bar until closing (1.00 a.m.) and sleep there.

The ferry arrived in Aberdeen at about 7.00 a.m. Apparently Aberdeen is a happening cosmopolitan place.  That may be so, I don’t really know.  I found a place for a long breakfast and time to catch up on emails etc and I bought a train ticket to Edinburgh, which is definitely a happening place, particularly when the Fringe Festival is on.  On train down I chatted with a middle woman who looked disarmingly like Elizabeth Taylor.  She could talk under a metre of wet concrete.  As various stages I tried to include a young girl at our table in the conversation.  It was difficult. Thinking back I can’t remember much of what the woman said, only that there was a lot said.

Edinburgh Jumps and Seeing Double Again

I booked into the Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel.  This YHA actually turned out to be ok – much like the modern Australian YHAs with good sized beds and en-suite bathrooms.  It is also very convenient to the city attractions.

After locking up the bike of the ‘bike shed’ which turn out to be a rubbish storage area, I venture off into town in search of the ‘Gold Mile’.  I actually remember Edinburgh quiet well from previous visits.  The place was already jumping with the Festival due to start the next day.  I went to three pubs all with great live music.

The next day I wandered into town again and found myself in Rose St, a narrow street with lots of pubs and restaurants,  that runs parallel to Princes St.  Who should I run into, but the twins I had meet in Kirkwall.  Readers of the Orkney Days post will recall that I worked with one of these twins at the Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority.  They were in great form, two pubs into drinking at all of the pubs into the street – I recall 17 pubs being mentioned.  I very amusing conversation ensured over a couple of beers, before I headed off to the Castle and the Museum.   In the evening I had a very ordinary Italian meal, and took in more live music at three more pubs.

The next day, the Festival had actually started.  I got tickets to Tony Law, one of the stand-up comics.  Before his show he played songs by the Who including ‘You Better You Bet’.   I Like that song when was released back in 1981.  The girl from Cooma (with the unusual name) that I mentioned in a previous post did not.  Listening to the lyrics now, I can probably see why.  The show was a bit off the air, but funny.  It is tough gig being a stand up comic.  More wandering in the city and big night of live music followed.

Coast and Castles Ride and Rain

In the morning I, packed up my bike and headed south.  The plan was to follow Nation Cycle Route 1 was on this section is known as the Castles and Coast Route.  The first part of the route goes nowhere near the coast, but rather, inland to the Scottish Borders.  It was tough riding into a strong southerly.

Finally the route hit the Tweed River and started heading east.  I had had enough by the time I got to Melrose.  I found the camping ground and set-up the tent.  The place had a few pubs.  The one I picked for a meal was great- excellent ocean trout.  I had a couple of pints in two other pubs.  I shouldn’t have bothered leaving to place I had the meal.

The next day I headed on down the Tweed to the coast.  It was a great run with wind behind me.  The countryside is very picturesque.

I stopped in Berwick on Tweed for a forgettable sandwich at the completely inappropriately named Bon Appetite café.

I then headed south towards Bamburgh  on the coast.  When I say on the coast I mean on the coast.  The track was right of the edge of the land.  It was mainly dirt single track.  I met a Dutch family riding form the south.  They thought they had  taken a wrong turning.  I assured them that they were on NCR 1 as I had been following the signs.

Late in the afternoon I got to Bamburgh.  I decide to stay in a hotel in the village not far from the castle.  After a meal into hotel I want for a walk down to the castle.  It is very impressive.  There is cricket ground next to the castle.  I dropped into what is known as the ‘middle pub’, on accounts of being between two others, for a beer.  The place was full of middle aged men in coloured shirts – some blue and some red.  It tuned out that the red one were Australians on senior cricket tour and the blue ones, there local opponents.  It was a few hours after the end of play and great many pints had been had by all.  I overheard the conversations of the day’s paly being recalled in minute detail.  This brought back memories.  I like the game but there some aspects that did bore me.  I was witness one such bit.

I woke up the next day to pouring rain.

Newcastle, Leeds and Ikley

I rode out of Bamburgh in the in the pouring rain.  This was not fun.  I headed towards Alnwick.  This has a great castle and my great grandparents hail from this area.  By the time I got to Alnwick I was completely saturated and cold.  I found a café for food and shelter.  The rain did no stop.

I checked the train times to Newcastle form the nearby town of Alnmouth .  There wasn’t a train for two hours.  I decided that train was for me.

I got into Newcastle and checked into the strangely named, Albatross   Hostel.  It is cheap and cheerful.   A pub nearby served a good curry and a selection of ales.  I refrained form have a Newcastle Brown.

Next day I took the train to Leeds.  I decided to stay in the Leeds Metropolitan University Residence that are in the old Kirkstall Brewery.  I had assumed that this would be near the Headingly Cricket Ground, the home of the Yorkshire County Cricket Ground, which has a ‘Kirkstall Lane End’.  I had the misfortune of see Geoff Boycott score his 100^th test century against the touring Australians in 1977 at that ground.  The residences are a long way from the ground.  However at GBP 25 per night the accommodation is great value.

I went into town for dinner by bus.  This time I had a good Italian meal and found a great pub serving a range of ales.  The copper on the bar must be worth a fortune.

Next day I headed to Ikley for lunch with my cousin and her husband.  Great conversation.  Fond farewells as I left to board the train to London.

Fickr Links

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http://flic.kr/s/aHsjHjahRY

Garmin Links

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/353458015

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/353457927

 

I decided that my second day in the Orkneys would be a  ‘domestic’  day.  That meant washing my clothes in a  washing machine for the first time since I had left Marshfield.

I found a Launderette in the town centre of Kirkwall.   I loaded my washing and looked for a café.  I found an inviting looking place a few metres away.  I ordered some coffee and plugged by laptop.  The waitress re-appeared with the manager.  I was told that if I “wanted to use the power, I would have to pay GBP 5 for using the power”.  I asked why??? They claimed that it was because staff from the ships abused the “offer of free Wifi”.   I said that was bit like offering free water but charging GDP 5 for the use of a glass.  They did not seem amused.

Still in my ‘domestic’ mood, I went to Tescos and bought some salmon and salad.  I cooked the salmon in  the hostel downed by a local ale and some Chilean wine.

Day 3

I decided not to ride the bike this day.  I walked into town and found a place called the Reel.  It was an interesting mixture of a bar, restaurant, café and music school.  It is staff by some seriously good looking waitresses.

It decided to take a Facebook friend’s advice and took a bus to the Standing Stones of Stenness and the Ring o’ Brodgar.  Unlike Stonehenge both sites are easily accessible and free.  There is also an archeological dig nearby.

http://www.orkneyjar.com/history/standingstones/

I returned to  the Reel in time for a couple of beers before it closed at 6.00 p.m.  Another patron was bloke from Adelaide. He told me that he was married to an Orcadian.  She convinced him to return to the Orkneys for “short stay”.  This has turned out to be 3 years.  He told me that this was 2 and ½ years too long.  He teaches music, including at the Reel, and plays in local folk band.   He told me that the winters are very hard to cope with.  One thing pointed out was that there are no eves on the roofs.  This is because of the extreme winds.  It is apparently not uncommon buildings to be damaged by the wind.  If the roofs had eves they would be blown off.

I had dinner at Helgas a place recommended in the book I am reading of the ride.

When I returned to the hostel ran into a women that worked  at the Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority.  I met her when I worked there in 2006.  She was on a trip through Scotland, Ireland and England with her twin sister.  They were born in Kurri Kurri and the sister lives in Woy Woy and they are twins – ‘ what the?’ ,’ what the?’.  They are classics.

Day 4

Decided to get back on the bike and ride to the Orkney Brewery.  Brewing is not a traditional industry on the island.  They do, however, make a reasonable drop.   The barley comes from Lancashire.  The staff at the brewery were very friendly and seemed interested in my trip.  They were very keen to take my photo.  I guess they don’t get too many visitors.

I returned to Kirkwall via  Stromness.  It made Kirkwall look colourful.

I had dinner at  Helgas again.

By the time I made my way to the ferry terminal for the ferry to the Shetlands it was freezing.

I boarded ferry at 11.00 p.m. and settled into a ‘ sleeping pod’ which is a bit like those used on aircraft (If you are willing to travel 1^st or Business).   A bloke a few rows away was snoring so loudly. I think he managed to keep the whole ship awake, let alone those in the sleeping pod section.

The ferry travels very slowly so it arrives in the Lerwick at around 7.00 a.m.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjHj9yA1

Garmin Link

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/349096355