Serious Drinking on a Ferry
The ferry from Lerwick in the Shetlands to Aberdeen was quite an experience. The majority of the passengers were blokes, mainly in their forties and older, that either worked in the offshore oil industry or the fish farms. Both industries work on a FIFO basis. Unlike the Australian mining industry where the F is for fly – the F is for ferry. They work for 12 days and have 12 days off. While at wor they can’t drink. This prohibition ceases when they board the ferry. These blokes certainly give it a nudge when they get started.
I was in a 4 berth cabin, with two other berths booked. I saw one other bloke. The second didn’t come to the cabin. I suspect was one the many who stay in the bar until closing (1.00 a.m.) and sleep there.
The ferry arrived in Aberdeen at about 7.00 a.m. Apparently Aberdeen is a happening cosmopolitan place. That may be so, I don’t really know. I found a place for a long breakfast and time to catch up on emails etc and I bought a train ticket to Edinburgh, which is definitely a happening place, particularly when the Fringe Festival is on. On train down I chatted with a middle woman who looked disarmingly like Elizabeth Taylor. She could talk under a metre of wet concrete. As various stages I tried to include a young girl at our table in the conversation. It was difficult. Thinking back I can’t remember much of what the woman said, only that there was a lot said.
Edinburgh Jumps and Seeing Double Again
I booked into the Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel. This YHA actually turned out to be ok – much like the modern Australian YHAs with good sized beds and en-suite bathrooms. It is also very convenient to the city attractions.
After locking up the bike of the ‘bike shed’ which turn out to be a rubbish storage area, I venture off into town in search of the ‘Gold Mile’. I actually remember Edinburgh quiet well from previous visits. The place was already jumping with the Festival due to start the next day. I went to three pubs all with great live music.
The next day I wandered into town again and found myself in Rose St, a narrow street with lots of pubs and restaurants, that runs parallel to Princes St. Who should I run into, but the twins I had meet in Kirkwall. Readers of the Orkney Days post will recall that I worked with one of these twins at the Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority. They were in great form, two pubs into drinking at all of the pubs into the street – I recall 17 pubs being mentioned. I very amusing conversation ensured over a couple of beers, before I headed off to the Castle and the Museum. In the evening I had a very ordinary Italian meal, and took in more live music at three more pubs.
The next day, the Festival had actually started. I got tickets to Tony Law, one of the stand-up comics. Before his show he played songs by the Who including ‘You Better You Bet’. I Like that song when was released back in 1981. The girl from Cooma (with the unusual name) that I mentioned in a previous post did not. Listening to the lyrics now, I can probably see why. The show was a bit off the air, but funny. It is tough gig being a stand up comic. More wandering in the city and big night of live music followed.
Coast and Castles Ride and Rain
In the morning I, packed up my bike and headed south. The plan was to follow Nation Cycle Route 1 was on this section is known as the Castles and Coast Route. The first part of the route goes nowhere near the coast, but rather, inland to the Scottish Borders. It was tough riding into a strong southerly.
Finally the route hit the Tweed River and started heading east. I had had enough by the time I got to Melrose. I found the camping ground and set-up the tent. The place had a few pubs. The one I picked for a meal was great- excellent ocean trout. I had a couple of pints in two other pubs. I shouldn’t have bothered leaving to place I had the meal.
The next day I headed on down the Tweed to the coast. It was a great run with wind behind me. The countryside is very picturesque.
I stopped in Berwick on Tweed for a forgettable sandwich at the completely inappropriately named Bon Appetite café.
I then headed south towards Bamburgh on the coast. When I say on the coast I mean on the coast. The track was right of the edge of the land. It was mainly dirt single track. I met a Dutch family riding form the south. They thought they had taken a wrong turning. I assured them that they were on NCR 1 as I had been following the signs.
Late in the afternoon I got to Bamburgh. I decide to stay in a hotel in the village not far from the castle. After a meal into hotel I want for a walk down to the castle. It is very impressive. There is cricket ground next to the castle. I dropped into what is known as the ‘middle pub’, on accounts of being between two others, for a beer. The place was full of middle aged men in coloured shirts – some blue and some red. It tuned out that the red one were Australians on senior cricket tour and the blue ones, there local opponents. It was a few hours after the end of play and great many pints had been had by all. I overheard the conversations of the day’s paly being recalled in minute detail. This brought back memories. I like the game but there some aspects that did bore me. I was witness one such bit.
I woke up the next day to pouring rain.
Newcastle, Leeds and Ikley
I rode out of Bamburgh in the in the pouring rain. This was not fun. I headed towards Alnwick. This has a great castle and my great grandparents hail from this area. By the time I got to Alnwick I was completely saturated and cold. I found a café for food and shelter. The rain did no stop.
I checked the train times to Newcastle form the nearby town of Alnmouth . There wasn’t a train for two hours. I decided that train was for me.
I got into Newcastle and checked into the strangely named, Albatross Hostel. It is cheap and cheerful. A pub nearby served a good curry and a selection of ales. I refrained form have a Newcastle Brown.
Next day I took the train to Leeds. I decided to stay in the Leeds Metropolitan University Residence that are in the old Kirkstall Brewery. I had assumed that this would be near the Headingly Cricket Ground, the home of the Yorkshire County Cricket Ground, which has a ‘Kirkstall Lane End’. I had the misfortune of see Geoff Boycott score his 100th test century against the touring Australians in 1977 at that ground. The residences are a long way from the ground. However at GBP 25 per night the accommodation is great value.
I went into town for dinner by bus. This time I had a good Italian meal and found a great pub serving a range of ales. The copper on the bar must be worth a fortune.
Next day I headed to Ikley for lunch with my cousin and her husband. Great conversation. Fond farewells as I left to board the train to London.
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