Puerto Varas to Bariloche
I ended up staying a couple of days in Puerto Varas. It is quite a nice place and the hostel was very good. It gave me some time to sort out some ‘administrative’ issues, including regaining access to internet banking. My bank had suspended my access after I had transferred some money to travel card by BPAY. It would seem that albeit, they brand the card as one of theirs, it is actually a Visa card and it is not controlled on their system. I don’t mind them stopping credit cards and suspending access to internet banking, if they see something suspicious. I do, however, have an issue when it is difficult to get things going again. This particularly the case if you have to call a 1 300 number that costs a fortunes. After several frustrating hours, I was able to regain access to internet banking.
Interesting was to get back into Argentina
The guide on the ferry from Puerto Natales has mentioned that there was a really interesting way to travel from Puerto Varas to Bariloche in Argentina. This involved taking a series of buses and boats through the National Park that straddles the border between the two countries.
I found a tourist agency that offered the trip. The cost was a bit of a shock. Back in the hostel I found the web site of the trip operator. The cost was USD 50 less than the agent’s price. The only problem was that you could only book 2 days in advance on line. I sent the company an e mail enquiring about a ticket for the next day. Within 30 minutes I received e mail telling me that I could pick up a ticket for the next day at their office in town. I went into town to pick the ticket. The very helpful woman in the office told me that “you booked the ticket 3 days ago”. I suspect there are issues between the travel agents and the company.
Up Early
I awoke early and headed into town. Chile and Argentina us the same time zone. At this time of the year, this means that it is still dark in Chile at 8.00 a.m.
The assembled passengers for the trip piled onto two buses. There appeared to be two groups – independent travellers and a group of Australians. For the first time in a long time, I felt young compared to my fellow travellers. There were a lot of slow moving grey haired people.
The bus travelled along the side of Lake Llanquihue. Through the clearing mist we could see Mt Osormo which is a very spectacular volcano.
The guide told us that the farms we were passing had been settled by German migrants in the early 1900’s. They had also settled in Puerto Varas itself and in Bariloche in Argentina. Their influence can be seen in the architecture of the towns.
It wasn’t long before we entered that National Park. There was shot walk to a waterfall that flows over some lava rocks. The lava had come from the volcano which is nearby. The views of the volcano are really spectacular. Check out the photos on Flickr.
Our next stop was a wharf where we boarded our first ferry. As we travelled across the next lake we had great view of the mountains that surround the lake. The lake is famous for being emerald green due to the fine sediment that is washes down from the glaciers.
As we travelled along, I got into conversation with some New Zealanders who were doing a ‘best of South America’ tour in 5 weeks. One couple were farmers from near Dunedin. They were interesting to talk to.
Our next stop was the Peulla Hotel which is owned by the tour operator. We were offered a number of activities to do during our 3 hour stopover. These include horse riding and ‘canopy’ – which is a flying fox through the trees. I opted for the canopy. It was great. Check out the Flickr videos.
After the flying foxing, we had lunch in the hotel. It looks like a really nice place.
Rough Road and Border Crossing
After lunch we boarded buses with very high clearance and 4WD. This was required as that road was very rough.
We passed through the Chilean border control and headed up the road into the Andes. The guide told us that this was Che Guevara passed over his journey that is featured in the film The Motorcycle Diaries. The Norton Commando he was riding was certainly not designed for this type of road.
Near the summit of the pass we stopped for photo opportunity of Mt Cerro Tronador.
We crossed into Argentina at the summit of the pass. One of the more interesting border crossing I have made.
Proof that Argentinian Border Control Staff are Stupid
Next was a decent to the Argentinian border control which is located by the next lake we were to cross. The woman in the tour operator’s office was at pains to ensure that I had a copy of my ‘Reciprocity Visa’ that Australians (along with citizens of the USA and Canada) must carry. This is necessary even through, given that I have already been Argentina, a stamp in my passport said I have access to the country for 90 days from the 16th of March.
Apparently Australians with a stamp, but no ‘paper Reciprocity Visa (a PDF on a computer will not suffice) have been turned back at this border.
After being processed, we crossed the lake and boarded another bus for a short ride to the next lake. There is stream running into this lake that is green due to the sediment mentioned above. However, the water in the lake is clear. Everyone felt obliged to take a picture of the ‘two toned’ water.
Last Ferry and Bus
The last ferry was a rather large catamaran that was also carrying people who I assume had been on day trips into the National Park from the Argentinian side.
There was then a short bus into Bariloche. It was a bit of climb up to my Hostel named the Marco Polo, which seems a bit odd for this part of the world.
Flickr Link
billrider2013 