Canterbury to Rome Day 17 to 19 – to Nancy and on to Strasbourg

It was after 2.00 p.m. on Sunday when I finally left Metz. I had to wait until after 10 before any of the cafes opened. I then had a long breakfast which seemed to merge into lunch. I took advantage of reasonable internet speeding in the café to upload some photos and videos. I so miss that high speed internet that I experienced in South Korea and the beginning of the year.

Canal

I left Metz following a canal. I am not sure if it was the right route, but it seemed to work okay.

After a while I was back in the Moselle proper.

On highway

This went all very well until I was passed a town called Pont a Mousson. I was following cycling signs when suddenly I found myself on a main highway that turned into a motorway.

I couldn’t find any way of getting off the road. At one point a van stopped. It appeared to be some sort of road maintenance van and the driver started yelling at me in French. He was clearly telling me that I should not be on the road. I told him in English that I “didn’t want to be on his F%&*ing road” and pointed to the river. I think he understood where I wanted to be and drove off.

Campsite

The girl at the reception of the campsite in Metz had written down that address of a campsite just north of Nancy. It took a bit of finding.

As I was checking in the Russian bloke arrived. He had left Metz a long time before me. He told me that most of the trail he took from Pont a Mousson was dirty track. I had obviously missed a sign.

As I was setting up my tent I got into conversation with a Dutch bloke who was erecting a huge tent next door. He hold me that he probably over done the tent given it was only for him, his wife and two small twins. It was so big I think he should be paying land tax.

Ride into Nancy

I was about a 20 klm ride into Nancy the next morning.

Nancy has a really impressive Square. I had a really good meal in a restaurant on the square.

Train to Strasbourg

After lunch I head to the railway station to buy ticket for the short ride to Strasbourg.

Hostel

I had booked into a hostel on the Rhine River. It turned out to be about 6 klms from the centre of Strasbourg.

Walk into Germany

I asked the English girl who was working on the reception where the nearest shops were. She told that the nearest shop was over the river in Germany.

I guess that is often the case in border areas, but it does sound a bit funny when you are advised to walk into another country to buy a tube of toothpaste and a beer.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/J2YG60

Garmin Links

To Liverdun

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/845424145

Into Nancy

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/846498726

Strasbourg

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/846498750

After a couple of days in Luxembourg, it was time to head south.

As I was packing up a fellow cyclists introduced himself. He turned out to be a Russian who had emigrated to Gothenburg in Sweden. He said he was heading south and asked if he could ride with me.

Heading east to the Moselle

We initially headed east towards the Moselle. I had a ‘velo’ map that I had picked up at the Tourist Information shop. The Russian bloke had a map on his iPad. Notwithstanding we had two maps, we managed to get a bit lost. At one point we found ourselves in a wheat field.

Finally getting to the river

We final hit the river and turned south. As we were looking a sign showing the bike path, another cyclists stopped. He was told us that he was from a small village near Luxembourg and had just returned from living in Melbourne for over a year. He had been working in a bike shop that sold Specialized bikes and was very keen to get back to Melbourne on a permanent basis.

Big barges and industry

The river path passed through some very picturesque farm land, but also passed some heavy industry. Some of the barges that we passed were huge.

There are a lot weirs on this stretch of the river. In reality, the river is a series of lakes. The barges have to pass through canals and locks to pass from one lake to the next.

Into Metz

It was late in the afternoon when we arrived in Metz. The Municipal campsite is located right on the river close to the centre of the town.

Good pub

We found a good pub selling craft beers.

Metz is Nice Place

The weather the next day was bit ordinary. I decided to stay put Metz.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskgTWgZR

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/843617886

I woke up very early in Charleville so I would be on time to catch the train to Luxembourg. The first leg of the trip was on a local train to Metz.

German Cyclist

In Metz, I changed trains and boarded a TGV. Another cyclist helped me load my bike and panniers on board.

He turned out to be a recently retired German. He told me that he was doing the St Michael’s Way, which is one of the ‘Pilgrim Trails’ from northern Europe into Spain. His plan was to do the whole trip in number of 20 to 30 days steps. He rides for those sorts of periods and “heads home to the wife”. After a couple of months he heads back to where he was up to and the does another 20 to 30 days. He told me that he wasn’t too sure how he will go in the middle of winter.

Arriving in Luxembourg

I arrived in Luxembourg before mid-day.

I had found a camp site of the internet which was about 6 klms from the city. When I arrived, the office was open, however the woman manning the place told me she was closing. I told her that I would come back. She said “no, you need to check in now”. I got the distinct impression that she could have been Basil Faulty’s long lost sister.

As I completed the check in process a couple arrived on bikes. She told them that she was closing, but also made them check-in there and then.

Couple turned out to be Dutch, which was hardly surprising. They were head to Metz down the Moselle that next day. They confirmed that it is really good ride.

Staying a Day in Luxembourg City

I decided to stay a full day to have a look around. I took that bus into the central part of the city. The languages being spoken were confusing. I had expected everyone to be speaking French. I was not aware that Luxembourg has its own language which is very close to German. Check out the link below.

Luxembourg City is a seriously wealthy place. Just walking around that wealth of the place, the wealth is palpable – much the same as it is in Mayfair, the Upper East Side of New York or in Toorak and South Yarra.

The ‘old’ part of the city is full of very up market shop and trendy cafés and restaurants.

Strange Language

http://www.bbc.co.uk/languages/european_languages/languages/luxembourgish.shtml

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/W208a0

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/841139014

Canterbury to Rome Day 14 – to Charleville -Mézières

It was a very nice day when I woke up in Montherme. This was spoilt when I dislodged a filling in a tooth while flossing. It must have disturbed the nerve as it was very sore.

Heading on to Charleville -Mézières

I packed up and headed on down the river to Charleville.

I had got it into my head that it would be easier to get the tooth fixed in Luxembourg. I headed to the railway station the buy a ticket for the train. As it turned out, there was no space available for the bike.

As I was discussing options with the SNCF bloke, I told him that I need a dentist. He told me that his dentist was not too far away and wrote down his details. He also sorted out a ticket to Luxembourg via Metz for the next day.

Tooth Fixed

It took me a bit of time to find the dentist. I pressed the bell on the door. I nurse appeared wearing a face mask. I told her that I “needed to see a dentist”. She clearly didn’t speak English. I pointed to the missing filling in my mouth. She motioned for me to come inside. This involved unloading the panniers off the bike.

Almost immediately I was taken into the dentist’s surgery. He spoke very good English and asked me what the problem was. He had quick look in my mouth and said “I can fix that, I just need you details”.

I gave him my British Passport. He asked if I was related to Jonny Wilkinson. I told him that I wasn’t, but the mere fact that I had the same surname seemed to be in my favour. This bloke seemed to be big rugby fan and we talked about the forthcoming RWC.

The procedure cost me EUR 33.74. This is less a quarter of what my Sydney dentist would charge. I am not sure if French dentists also get paid by the government. If they don’t, they are not going to be able to afford multi-million dollar houses in Mosman anytime soon.

Camp site near the river

With my tooth fixed I rode to the camp site very close to the centre of the city.

It was a short walk back across the Meuse River back into town for a meal. I found a really good restaurant just of the main square.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskdak2yb

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/840160660

When I awoke in the morning it was raining. The woman in the Tourist Office was right about the weather.

The Dutch bloke had left. I hope his feet heal.

I headed into town for a coffee and croissant. In the café I meet a Dutch couple riding to Paris to see the end of the Tour de France. I am sure Holland must be empty this time of the year.

Down the river Meuse

I was on the Meuse River. I had read that this is one of the best cycle routes in this part of France. What I had read was correct.

The trail basically followed the river on dedicated cycle paths or small roads.

I passed through a couple nice little towns.

Meeting Blokes from Seattle

I stopped in Furmay for lunch. I got into conversation with three blokes from Seattle who were riding from Amsterdam to Paris.

We ended up riding together as I headed south.  I had a couple interesting chats with the blokes as we rode along. I like Seattle and like to speak to people that live and work there.

They were stopping in a small town called Montherme. It looked pretty good. I stopped by the Tourist Office to ask about accommodation. The woman in the office said that the camping site was very good. She was right.

I set up my tent and headed into town for a meal. Unfortunately the two restaurants   were ‘complete’ – that is full.

Cheap Meal

I ended up buying a salad and bottle of wine from a supermarket and headed back to the campsite.

I got into a conservation with a Scottish couple while I was having my meal. They thought I was “sensible buying a salad from the supermarket (rather than eating in restaurant), as French cooking isn’t very good”.

I like Scotland, however if there were any two countries that were at the opposite end of the continuum with respect to standards of restaurant cooking, it would be France and Scotland. I have to say Scotland is definitely at the crap end of the continuum.

Apart from their rather curious view on food, the couple had some interesting things to say about Scotland and its relationship with the rest of the UK.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/1Ti0Ba

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/839191694

 

 

I was a bit damp when I woke up in Cerfontaine.

I quickly packed up and headed into town. I found a place for a coffee and croissant.

Tourist Office Open

Albeit it was early on Sunday morning the tourist office was open. I explained that I was heading east on a bike. The very nice lady provided me with a map and suggested that I take a route through the nearby forest before getting on to a rail trail.

I headed off with map in hand. I met a fellow cyclist who seemed to ask me where I was headed. I showed him of the map. He beckoned me to follow him. After about 3 klms he pointed down a small track. I am not sure I would have found it without his assistance.

Nice countryside

The route took me through some nice countryside.

Town with Vapour Train

After a couple of wrong turns I found the start of the rail trail. The town where it begins has a Steam Train Museum. These are popular the world over. There is something about a steam train that really interests people.

The rail trail was really good. Check out the video on Flickr.

South to Givet

I stayed on the rail trail a bit longer than necessary. My destination was Givet which is in France. Clearly the people who maintain the rail trail are interested in providing directions from Belgium into France.

It was a short ride on a main road south to Givet.

The woman in the Tourist Office a very amusing. She was very concerned that I would be upset by the weather, which was forecast to be “start rain, stop rain, start rain…..”. I assumed this to be intermittent showers.

Campsite

I found the Municipal Campsite. The cost was EUR 4.33. This is very strange price. I can only assume that the prices are indexed and the local Council is not into rounding.

Pilgrim Walker

My neighbour in the campsite was a Dutch boke who was doing the Camino de Santiago Pilgrim walk.

He seemed to be doing it a bit tough, having developed a couple of nasty blisters on his left foot.

Good Meal

I found a restaurant in town and had a meal.

Fickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/photos/twwilko_photos/sets/72157655802827780

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/838422502

I spent a bit longer in Mons than I had planned. It is not a bad place. One of my London host’s lived there for many years working for NATO.

Another reason for staying there for a couple of days was that I wasn’t feeling too well. Putting things into perspective, I have been remarkably lucky with my health over the past year. The last time I didn’t feel well was over a year ago when I picked up a bug in New York and wasn’t feeling too flash when I flew to Iceland.

Leaving Mons to Cerfantaine

I got a bit lost getting out of Mons heading for Cerfontaine. This very frustrating if you are a on a bike.

I finally found the right road and headed east. I stopped for a beer and a hamburger in the small place called Beaumont. There were lots of motorbikes on the road and in the town.

Young Belgium Bloke wants Manx Norton

As I had my meal I got into a conversation with a young Belgium bloke and his girlfriend who were on a BMW. He explained that had been a ‘classic road’ race nearby. This was a race for classic bikes on normal roads in the style of the Isle of Man TT. I told them that I had been on the Isle of Man his time last year. He was very impressed. She gave the impression that she couldn’t give a stuff.

I was very impressed by that his “great desire in life is to own a Manx Norton”. I am not sure his girlfriend thinks that is good idea.

Passing the lake

The owner of the bar gave me very complicated instructions on how to get to the campsite in Cerfontaine.

In the end, it was a simple case of take the road that crosses over a dam forming a lake and following the signs to the ‘Camping’.

Australia wins the Cricket

I pitched the tent and had shower in the dark. This was due to the fact that the light switch was a half a metre above my head – not a place I thought of looking. I only noticed it as I was leaving.

I went to the bar and got onto the internet. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Australia had won the 2^nd Ashes Test in four days.

My London host was pissed off as he had hoped to get a cheap ticket to Lord’s for the fifth day.

Rainy Night

It poured with rain overnight. My Northface tent is good, however it can’t cope with really heavy rain. I had a couple damp spots in the morning.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskgHwnux

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/838422479

This day took me from Lille to Mons.

I had problems getting out of Lille. Getting out of large cities and towns in Europe is often difficult on a bike. There are typically one way road systems that take you to a ring road. This often means you are initially travelling in the opposite direction of your ultimate destination. It is often very confusing and can add lots of kilometres to your trip.

On a Canal

After about 35 klms on bike path next to road I arrived Tournai. I found the Tourist Office and asked for a Velo (bicycle) map.

The map showed a bike path to Mons along the Grande Canal. I headed off.

All went well for until I approached Mons. The canal spit into smaller canals that went off into industrial areas. I clearly took the wrong one and got completely lost.

I can across a fellow cyclist coming the other way. I asked for direction into Mons. He tried to explain the way and then said “it is very difficult because of some construction work”. He turned around and at told me to follow him. We went about 4 klms before he showed me the direct route into the city. I am not sure how far he went out of his way to do that, however, I was very pleased to get his assistance.

Great Hostel

I headed to the main city square (Grande Plaza) and asked for directions to the Hostel. I turned out to be just of the square. It is very good. The girl in the Reception told me that is was designed by the same bloke that oversaw the stabilisation of the Tower of Pisa.

Mons is a bit popular this very as it is the ‘European Capital of Culture. There are lots of events on.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskg5YAro

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/834883802

I didn’t checkout of the hotel until mid-day. The weather was great and I decided to have a long lunch in a café just off the main square. I entertained myself with some reading and an occasional dip into what was happening with cricket in Cardiff.

Predictions on the Ashes

The cricket was only entertaining if you were an England supporter. As my SW18 host will confirm, I had predicted before the start of the series that Australia was not a strong a side as most English supports feared. In particular, if Harris wasn’t fit and Smith didn’t adjust to the conditions, Australia could be in real trouble. As it turned out, Harris has been forced to retire with a dicky knee and Smith struggled.

Short Ride

I had decided to take a short ride east of Arrras to a campsite recommended by the tourist information. As always getting out of town was a bit tricky. I finally found the correct ‘D’ road through the one way maze.

The campsite was very good. The manager offered me a local ‘blonde bier’. I was very good.

Nearly all the number plates in the place were NL. The Dutch have started their migration south.

North to Lille

In the morning I had a quick check of the map and decided on vague route to the east of Arras. I selected a Military Museum on the Garmin that appeared to be on the route.

Evidence of the Tour de France

As rode along, I appeared to be following the route of the Tour de France which travelled to Roubaix a couple of days before. There were lots of paint and chalk markings on the road. There were also lots of painted bicycles and a bicycle made of hay.

Battle Field

I came to a point where the Garmin told me that I had arrived at the Military Museum. The place was closed and it looks as though it will never open again.

Not far up the road I came across the Canadian Memorial for the battle of Vimy. Like Australia, the Canadians incurred huge losses in the Great War. The centre is very interesting and includes preserved trenches.

Further on I came across the Vimy Memorial, huge white stone sculpture. Along its side are inscribed the names of the 11,168 Canadian soldiers whose remains could not be found.

Refreshing Bier

I stopped in a small town called Carvin. The little bar where I stopped was owned by a bloke who was a bit of motor sports fanatic. There were some interest posters on the wall, including a poster of the mighty Vincent. The bier was nice and cold.

Into Lille

The last 20 klms into Lille was very straight and flat. It is a busy road, but at least there was a bike path.

My hostel was in the old part of the city. This involved riding on cobble stones. It is not easy. I don’t know how the road cyclists cope with these stones on the Paris to Roubaix race.

Staying In Lille

I ended staying in Lille a bit longer than expected. The weather was not too good and I expected that there would be something to see on the 14^th of July. Surprisingly there wasn’t much on.

 Link to Vimy Ridge Memorial

http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/overseas/first-world-war/france/vimy

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfueUPz

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/830268483

It was a glorious day when I finally left Filliervres and headed east towards Frevent. I passed a number of little towns that all seemed to be closed. Even in Frevent, which is a reasonably large place, most of the shops were closed. The French retailing hours a mystery to me.

Windmills

I passed a number of windmills. Each time I see a windmill I can’t help thinking of Tony Abbott and Joe Hockey and their ludicrous dislike of this very good technology.

This part of France is not spectacular, however the countryside is pleasant enough. As I rode along I listened to podcast on the First Ashes Test being played in Cardiff. There no doubt about the ability of the BBC to broadcast sport.

Into Arras

It was late in the afternoon when I arrived in Arras. Getting into the centre of the city was like solving a maze. The one way streets system seemed to be designed to prevent anyone getting into the centre.

I finally found the central square. It is quite impressive.

Arras was basically destroyed in both world wars and had to be rebuilt on both occasions. Fortunately, the rebuilding involved returning the city square and the surrounding area to their original state.

I made me think would should happen if the centre of Civic in Canberra was ever destroyed. I certainly would not advocate the rebuilding on Garema Place in its original state.

The Benefits of City Square

There is no doubt that a good centre square, like the one in Arras (and many other European towns and cities), can be a major attraction. It is disappointing that the planners of Australian cities and towns, including Canberra’s, did not look to Europe for inspiration.

Staying a Hotel

I decided to stay in the city. I checked in the Ibis Hotel, a cheap and cheerful place a block from the square.

After a shower, I went for a walk. I was met by a very large dog. Check out the flickr photo.

In a street off the square I found a busy little restaurant for a meal. It was only after I had ordered that I realised that there was only one waiter. This bloke was coping. He must be the most efficient waiter in the whole of France.

After the meal I had couple of beers in a bar on the square. It was a bit of the happening place.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfVSscD

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/828100517