Ferry to Santander

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My ferry from Portsmouth to Spain was due to leave at 5.30 p.m.  That gave me sometime in Portsmouth.

Shocker of a Breakfast

My first task was to find somewhere to eat breakfast. The part Portsmouth where I was staying appeared to be bereft of café’s.  There were lots of pubs and take-way places selling kababs etc.  but seemingly nowhere to buy breakfast.

I finally found a place that served breakfast.  It was a shocker – English breakfast with bacon and eggs and ‘canned tomato’. Who eats canned tomatoes these days?

Doing laundry

My next task was to do some laundry.  I am getting very good at using laundrettes.  While my washing was being done, I had a chat will an old school mate who has recently had a heart attack.  It was good to hear that all is good with him.  He has been told by his doctor that he can lead a ‘normal life’.

Very Good Lunch

I returned to my digs and packed up the bike.

I walked in to the old part of the town.  It is a very trendy area.

I found a restaurant and had a very good lunch.

On to the Ferry

It was starting to rain when I left the restaurant and headed to the ferry port.  I hopped on to the bike and peddled like mad.

It was a simple process to get on to the ferry, the Pont Aven.  It is really big.  Check out the Flickr photos.

Once on Board, I found my cabin.  It was very comfortable.  I checked out what the ferry had to offer. It has several bars and restaurants, a cinema, and a pool.

Chat with another Brexit supporter

The food on the ferry was very good.  After dinner I sat a bar for a while.  I chatted with an old bloke who was travelled to Spain with his motorcycle.  He was interesting to chat to regarding touring on a motorbike in Europe.

His views on the Brexit were typically ill informed.

Good sleep in the cabin

I had a good sleep.

Went I awoke I checked the news on the internet.  There had been a terrorist attack at the Istanbul airport.

Relaxed Day at Sea

The ferry was due to arrive in Santander and around 7.30 p.m. Once off the ferry I checked the Garmin for the nearest Camp site.  It got me there with no drama.  This isn’t usually the case.

 

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/MBE629

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1236599668

 

 

To Salisbury

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I had spent quite a bit of time in the Devizes area.  It was time to move on.

When I woke up I checked the news.  The UK had voted to leave the European Union.

I packed up my tent and headed off along the canal and up the flight of locks into the town for some breakfast.  This soon turned into brunch.

Finding route 45

I continued east along the canal until route 4 crossed route 45 which heads to Salisbury.

The route took me along some quiet country lanes and through some picturesque villages.

Four blokes in a pub discussing the Brexit

I stopped in a pub in Upavon for some water and a beer.

There were four grey haired blokes discussing the Brexit result.  Some of the stuff they were saying was extraordinary.

Late into Salisbury

I rode through some showers as I headed into Salisbury.  I checked into the camping ground and quickly set up the tent.  I am finally getting back into the swing of setting the tent up.

‘Meal’ at Harvesters

I walked to a nearby pub for a meal.  It turned out to a pub that has been taken over by a chain called Harvesters.   The place was packed, god knows why. This chain seems to specialise in selling very bad food.

I headed back to the camping ground. I wasn’t in the tent for long before I had to head to the toilet block to deposit the meal.

Sniffer Dog

In the morning I walked into the town.

The path took me across an open field.  There was a black Labrador barking like crazy in the middle of the field. The owner was near to me.  I asked him if he “knew why the dog was barking”.  He told that “he used to be a sniffer dog used to find illicit drugs.  He must have found some drugs in the grass”.  He also said that it can be “embarrassing when he detects something on a person in the street”.  “He barks at them and tries to follow them”.

Checking out the Cathedral

Salisbury is famous for its cathedral. It is a classic.  The cathedral also houses one of the four original copies of the Magna Carta.

The grounds of the cathedral are interesting in that there are a number of sculptures.  One of them is by Liz Frink.

Meal in Pub

After checking out the cathedral I had a very good meal a pub  in the town square.

After lunch I went to the library.  Again I was very impressed by the library.  The small cities and towns in England all seem to have good libraries and they seem to be well patronised.

Sunday Lunch

The next day I decided to head back to the pub in the town square for ‘Sunday Lunch’ – roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.  It was really good.

After lunch I stayed in pub for a quiet beer.  There was really obnoxious drunk who was harassing other patrons. For some reason he took a particular dislike to me.  He accused me of being a ”Russian spy”.  After sometime the staff of the pub finally through him out and called the police.

His parting words to me were to effect that “he remembered my face and would deal with me in the street”.

After about half an hour, a policeman arrived.  He asked to speak with anyone who “had any dealings with the drunk”.  He told me that they had found him in another pub where he had been “racially abusing the staff”.  He said that the bloke would “be taken into custody to sober up”.

Advice of How to Get to Portsmouth

Went I got back to the camping ground, there were two other cyclists.  One was Dutch woman who was “riding in the UK for 3 months”.  The other was bloke from the Isle of Wight.  He gave me some tips on the best way to get to Portsmouth.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/94A9G5

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1227245858

Liz Frink

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elisabeth_Frink

Salisbury Cathedral

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salisbury_Cathedral

Salisbury to Portsmouth

Portsmouth

I had decided to take Cycle Route 24 towards Portsmouth.

As is often the case the cycle routes are a bit dodgy leaving the bigger towns and cities.   Salisbury is no exception.

Some nice lanes

Once out of the city I was on some nice lanes and the weather was good.   It wasn’t too long before I crossed the border in Hampshire.

I lost the trail heading into Southampton.  I suspect the Sustrans marker tags have been vandalised.

Southampton

Southampton isn’t my favourite place. Much of the city area was heavily bombed during WWII.  It was rebuilt in the 1950’and 60’s.  The building are mainly poor quality.

I found an Italian restaurant near the river and had a reasonable meal.

Picking up Cycle Route 2

After lunch, I crossed the Itchen Bridge and picked up Cycle Route 2 which follows the Solent down to Portsmouth.

The ride along the Solent was good with some nice paths and views of the water.

Water Taxis

At one point I had to cross the Hamble River.  I was a bit concerned to find that the little ferry that makes the crossing had stopped running.  Fortunately, there was a bloke at the pier who told me that there was a water taxi.  He made a call and the taxis duly arrived.

There was older couple in the taxis.  They had a 10 year old  mini Schnauzer.  It reminded me of my dog Jessie.

Portsmouth in the Distance

The ride from the Hamble River into Gosport seemed to take forever. Portsmouth could be  seen in the distance, but didn’t seem to get any closer.

Gosport Ferry

I took the ferry from Gosport across to Portsmouth.

Wrong Place

I had booked into an AirBnB.  It was in Waverly Road.  There are two Waverly Roads in Portsmouth.  I went to the wrong one. Bugger.

England Beaten by Iceland

It was late by the time that I was settled in the AirBnB  and had taken a shower.  I headed off to get some dinner.

The people in the pub that I found very subdued.  The reason was that England were about to be beaten by Iceland in the European Football Cup.  An Australian bloke in the pub was winding up the locals.  He noted that “England is the only country to leave Europe twice win a few days”.  The locals were not impressed.

 Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskBPzqQC

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1236599616

Marshfield to Devizes

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It was a bit wet and miserable when I awoke in the cottage my host’s backyard. My plan for the day was to ride to a camping ground near Devizes.

It took quite some time to back up. I suspect the weather had something to do with that.

As the morning wore on, the rain changed to a light drizzle and it was time to leave.

My hosts were keen to record my departure with ‘a photo or ten’ as a reminder that it does happen.

That was the end on another great stay.

Down to Bath

I took a direct route to Bath. This is not the best way to ride a bicycle, but was still drizzling and I wanted to get there as quickly as I could.

I stopped briefly in Bath, to buy a lense cover for my new camera and early lunch at a Boston Tea shop.  This one of the few good ‘chain’ cafes in the UK.

As usual, Bath was full of tourists.  I must be one of the most popular tourist cities in the UK.

On the Canal Again

The weather had cleared as I left Bath on Cycle Route 4.  Not far from the city, I was back on the Kennet and Avon Canal.

This is very good part of the canal for cycling.

At one point the path crosses the Avoncliff viaduct.  This is another of amazing engineering.  The viaduct is 70 metres above the river below. Checkout the link below and the Flickr photos and videos

Quaint Pub

Not far from the viaduct, I stopped to have a beer in quaint little pub.

After a beer, I slowly rolled on towards Devizes. Part of the tow path were vey muddy.  Memories of 2012 returned.

Caravan and Camping Club

I headed for a camping ground that is about 4 kilometres before Devizes. It is a great spot to stay.

Amazingly the woman on the reception “remembered [me] from last year”.   She took my name and found all my details on their computer.

I pitched my tent and then headed back along the canal to the Barge Inn.  I have mentioned this pub before.  It has really good food.

A ‘Leave’ Supporter runs away at the sight of a UK Passport

As I ate I listened to people talking in the pub.  The main topic of conversation was the ‘Brexit’ referendum. Everyone seemed to be a ‘Leave’ supporter.

I asked one woman “why she wanted to leave?”.  She told that she had “asked her MEP (Member for the European Parliament) for a set of European Commission accounts and he could not provide them”.   I asked her why she didn’t go to to the European Commission web site where she could find the Commission’s Annual Financial reports and Auditor’s opinions. She told me the I was “obviously not British”. I took out my British Passport. She walked off.

Some Time in Devizes

I had decided to stay some time in camping ground.

It is a bit of walk into Devizes along the canal and up the Caen Hill flight of locks. I have mentioned them before.  They are amazing.

Devizes is one of those ‘mixed towns’. It is an old market town.  There are some very old historic parts. It has the canal and an old Wadsworth brewery.  There are some ‘upmarket’ shops and cafes. It also has some ‘welfare’ housing. There are some tacky shops – Poundland etc. .

The population reflects the above – some wealthy people – mostly retirees and poor people, many seemingly on welfare.  There does seem to be many people in the ‘middle’.

I spent some time in the library. I was good to see that it is a good facility and popular.

The Brexit Vote

The UK vote on Thursdays.  The 23rd of June was the big day for the Brexit referendum.

There didn’t seem to be too much activity in the town related to the vote.

In the evening I went to the Three Magpies pub.  The polls closed at 10.00 p.m.  The focus of the TV coverage was on Sunderland.  It is the place in the UK that counts its votes quicker than anywhere else.   When the pub closed, the consensus was that ‘Remain’ would win.

Awaking to a ‘Shock Result’

I awoke on Friday morning a bit seedy after having a couple, or three 6X beers watching start of the referendum count on Thursday night.

I turned on my smartphone.  The UK had voted to leave the EU.

Time to Leave

I was heading to Salisbury.  I packed up and rode along the canal into Devizes for a late breakfast.

After a long breakfast and some Skype chats, I continued on the Route 4 until I met the Route 45 heading south east towards Salisbury.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskBWr7kC

Garmin Link

When their site works!!!!!

About the Canal

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kennet_and_Avon_Canal

About the Avoncliff Aqueduct

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avoncliff_Aqueduct

Time in Marshfield

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I arrived in Marshfield late. My hosts were in the final stages of preparing a meal.

They had other quests – one of the host’s older brother, his wife and their daughter and son in-law and their young on.

I had a quick shower and joined the gathering for the meal.

Excellent Meal and Conversations

It was a great meal.

I had not seen my hosts’ bother for nearly 40 years. We talked about that first time that we met back in 1996 we he was touring Australia with a Great Britain sporting team and visited my parents in Canberra.  He went on to play with that team in the Mexico Olympics.

During the course meal there were a number of stories about my hosts’  father and my father in their young days in the north east of England.

There were also very funny sporting stories including one about my host’s older brothers playing doubles tennis against some ‘big name’ Australian players and doing rather better than expected.

Preparation for the Mini Festival

The next day, the big activity was to help my guests’ daughter and son in law prepare for a mini-festival (party).

The couple bought a house on acreage near Marshfield about a year ago. It has the most amazing view of the St Catherine valley.

As far as the ‘crow flies’, it is a relatively short distance from Marshfield to the couple’s house.  However, to drive, it is rather a long way along very narrow lanes.  My host drives along these lanes very quickly.

My skill set didn’t result in me providing too much assistance to the preparation for the party.  However, I did provide moral support as my host completed several tasks including table repairs and sign writing.

Friday in the Catherine Wheel

With the tasks completed we returned to village.

Before dinner, we went to the local pub. From my experience (5 years), it is always crowded on a Friday night.  This night was no exception.  A high proportion of the villagers go to the pub on a Friday night for a weekly catch up.

One of my hosts spotted an “Aussie who had recently moved into the village”.  She was keen to introduce me to the said “Aussie”.

We recognised each other immediately- he was from the same suburb in Sydney where I lived. We have a number of mutual friends and ex-friends (‘ex’ as a result of my divorce) and had seen a bit of each other at various social and sporting events over the years.

He told me that he was originally from “Bath and had decided to sell up in Sydney and move back to England after retiring.

He has had to deal with some sad personal issues.  I hope he is happy in the village.

Australia beaten in Melbourne

Next morning, we watched the 2nd Australia v England Rugby Test that was being played in Melbourne.  One of my hosts lived in Melbourne for many years and she is a Wallabies supporter. The other host is English and is not a Wallabies support.

We were joined in watching the game by a bloke from the village.  He had played top level Rugby some years ago.  He was very knowledge about the game.

Part way through the game, when it appeared that England would win, one of my hosts (the England supporter) disappeared.  He returned wearing a Wallabies jersey.  He is a very brave man. The other host was not pleased.

Mini Festival

Late in the afternoon we headed off to the party.

It was a quintessential early summers’ evening in the English countryside – soft light, mild temperature and the air full of the stuff the makes you sneeze and makes your eyes water (i.e. hay fever).

I found that drinking beer and wine is a could cure for hay fever

Waterslide

There was a lot going on. The big hit for the children was a water slide.  The slide consisted of two large sheets of plastic on a steep slope.  All that need to be added was some water from a hose and the occasional squirt of detergent.

The video tells it all as far as the enjoyment it delivered.

In the next field, the party hosts had placed some hay bales around a fire pity.  The fire was used to fry marshmallows.

Interesting Chats

A lot of the quests sat on the hay bales chatting.  I had a number of interesting conversations with other quests.

A couple I chatted to run neighbouring farms.  They told me that they were very pleased that the hosts of the party had move into the area with their young family.  They said it was so good to have people “actually living on the property rather than it being owned by some ultra-rich Russian Oligarch or film star”.

From where we were sitting, we could look down on a house that was once owned by the actress Jane Seymour.  It is now owned by a mysterious Russian.

Some Music

Early in the evening we were entertained by a Samba band.  They were really good.  Check out the video.

Later in the evening there was more music proved by a couple on young blokes. They appear to be going places.  Again, checkout the video.

Ride to Lunch

Another event during my stay was Sunday Lunch at pub in a valley near Cirencester.

The plan was for my host and I to ride to the pub.  The other host was to drive and meet us, and their friends at the pub.  My host had estimated that ride would take 2 and half hours.

Part way there, it was obvious that we were not going to be there in time.  After some phone calls it was agreed that the driving host would pick us up.

I suspect that my relatively slow ‘moving average’ speed had something to do with the change in plan.

The lunch was great.

Clean up after the Party

Another actively was helping the party hosts, clean up.  There wasn’t a huge amount to do – pulling down bunting and flags and packing up the plastic used for the waterside etc.

One task was to move the hay bales into a shed.  This involved loading up the recently purchased Landrover with the hay bales.

Getting the Landrover out of the field turned to be a bit of a challenge. Again the video tells a story.

Art Work

On my last evening in the village, I was privileged to see a very significant piece of art work.

I also got to meet the person that was doing some restoration work on the piece.

My host invited that person for dinner. To say this boke is a ‘bit of a character’ is an understatement.

Leaving in the Rain

Next morning it was time to leave the village.

I delayed my departure a little bit to avoid the worst of some passing showers.

My hosts were keen to record my departure with ‘a photo or ten’ as a reminder that it does happen.

That was the end on another great stay.

Back to Devizes

I took a direct route to Bath.

From there I headed along the Kennet and Avon canal on Cycle Route 4 to a camping ground a few kilometres before Devizes.

 

Flickr Links

Mini Festival (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/38Z62U

Other Marshfield (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/mw90NB

Art (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/jz8g68

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1217867130#

 

Ride to Marshfield

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It was raining lightly when I left Henley on Thames and headed towards Reading.  I had expected to be able to ride along the river and was surprised to find that it was not possible.  The ride into Reading was a bit ordinary, mainly on bike paths next to busy roads.

Finding the Canal

I stopped in Reading for a late breakfast and to sort out some issues with my Sony phone.  I now have three phones – the Sony Xperia, a new Samsung S7 and a very basic Telstra So I can get SMS message on my Australian number.  Only the Samsung appears to be hassle free.

It took me awhile to find the Cycle Route 4.  The route follows the Kennet and Avon canal.  You would think that it would be easy to find – just head for the canal.  A surprising number of people in Reading seem to oblivious to the existence of the canal.

Remembering 2012

This is the fifth year in a row that I have ridden on the Cycle Route 4, albeit it is only the second time that I have headed West from Reading.  I can vividly remember my first time, back in June 2012.

As I started on that ride, the West of England through to London was experiencing its worst spring weather in over 50 years.  There was torrential rain and gale force winds. I headed into that weather.

It was extraordinary: the rain was heavy and often horizontal was I rode into the westerly winds.  I tell people that it was “difficult to distinguish the towpath from the canal”, as there was so much water on the path.

In 2012, I only made it as far Wotton Waters.  I recall staying at great little pub that did B&B called the Royal Oak.

My plan this year was to get to Devizes which is further west.

A bit Slow

As it turned out, I didn’t travel as fast as I expected.  My time off the bike since September last year and reduced level of fitness was hindering my progress.  I clearly wasn’t going to make it to Devizes on this day.

The Route 4 took me passed the above mentioned Royal Oak.  I was looking forward to staying there again.  I was very disappointed to find that they were fully booked, and the last room had only just be taken.

The bloke in the pub old me that “the Golden Swan in Didcot does camping”.  I headed on the Didcot.

England draw with Russia

It was after 8.00 p.m. by the time I arrived in Didcot. The pub’s kitchen was about to close.  The only meal available was “pie of the day”.  I had no option except to order it.

As I ate my meal I watched England playing Russia in the European Cup Football. England were expected to win and were leading 1-0 up until the final minutes when Russia score an equaliser.

A group of blokes in the pub were also watching the game.  They didn’t seem the slightest bit surprised at the result.  English soccer supporters have very low expectations when it comes to their national team.

The Pie wasn’t Good

After the soccer was finished, I climbed into my tent.  I wasn’t there long before I had to rush to the toilet – I suspect that the “pie of the day” was made with the leftovers from yesterday.

I didn’t have the greatest of the night’s sleep.  My Fitbit tells me that I was ‘awake’ 4 times during the night. I won’t go into detail about what I did while I was awake.

Continue to Devises

In the morning I headed on to Devizes on quite roads that run parallel to the canal.

I re-joined the canal at Devizes and continued west.  About 2 kilometres from the town are the Caen Locks.  They are amazing.  Check out the Flickr Link for the video.

No Call to the Barge Inn

After the locks, I continued on to the Barge Inn.

It is a great Pub on the canal.   I have stopped at this pub several times.

As I mentioned above, in 2012 the weather was really bad.  I stopped at the pub for lunch. While I was eat eating, I ‘Check in’ on Facebook.  One of my Marshfield hosts saw the post.

He rang the pub and asked to be put through to the restaurant.  He told the waitress that “there was a very wet Australian cyclist in restaurant” and asked that “phone be taken to him”.  I was very surprised to be given the phone.

It makes a good story.

This year the food was good as every other year.

I checked in the pub on Facebook, but I didn’t get a call.

Not a good route to Marshfield

After lunch, I continued west of the canal, before heading towards Chippenham, en route to Marshfield.

Marshfield is a great little village, but I always find it difficult to navigate there.  I blame the Garmin, but I think I have something to do with my problem.  This year I manage to take a very circuitous route to the village.

It was just on dinner time when I arrived at my hosts house.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/b4v75n

Garmin Link

When the internet permits

To Henley on Thames

Henley on Thames

I spent over a week in London SW18. It was great.  As usual my hosts were very generous.  It was great to be back in London. It did some tourist stuff, caught up with family, went to the Bruce Springsteen concert at Wembley and the Coral King Musical in the West End.

I also had my bike serviced.

Slow to Get Going

It was time to head off on the bike.  It took me at little longer than expected to pack-up and leave the house.  I think my host was getting worried that I wasn’t going to leave.

Lock-up

My first stop was my lock-up where I collected by tent and other camping gear.

Finally Riding

I was finally off and riding.  I had determined a ‘vague’ route to Henley on Thames.  You can never trust the Garmin to plot any route longer than 10klms.  I asked it to get me to Kingston on Thames.  I could gone along the Thames river, but that is very round- about way and I have ridden on that part of the river many times.

The Garmin took me across Wimbledon Common and on mainly back roads to Kingston on Thames.

On the River

At Kingston on Thames, I picked up the Sustrans Cycle Route No 4.  This one of the most popular cycle routes in the UK.

I headed along the river.

After a short distance, I came across the Molesey Cricket Club.  It is quintessential ‘village’ cricket ground.  Even though it was a Friday, the club house was open and serving food. I had a sandwich.

Hampton Court

Next stop was Hampton Court. This was the favourite residence of King Henry VIII. I remember taking a lot of visitors there in the late 1970’s.

Hampton Court was the finishing point of the cycling time trial in the 2012 Olympics.  It was great venue for the event.

Runnymede

I continue along the river towards Windsor.  Close to the town, I left the Route 4 to stop off at Runnymede, ‘the birthplace of the Rule of Law and Democracy’.

It is considered that Runnymede is the most likely location at which, in 1215, King John sealed Magna Carta, which signified the primacy of Parliament over the Crown.

Windsor

I continued on to Windsor.  This was dodgy bit.  The road was very busy with no verge.

Rain Hits

As I left Windsor towards Maidenhead, the sky darkened.  It was soon pissing down with rain.  I stopped in service station hoping that it would clear.

It didn’t.  I donned my wet weather jacket and continue on.

Big Hill

The route took me over the M4 several times.  That is seriously busy road.

As I approached Henley on Thames I had to ride over a hill.  I found it very difficult.  I am clearly unfit.

Pitching the Tent

It was after 9.00 p.m. went I finally arrive at the Swiss Farm Camping Ground.  I have stayed here before.  It is really good.

It took me a while to pitch the tent in the fading light.

If it rained overnight, I didn’t notice. I was knackered.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/q5gdb7

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1207346632

About Runnymede

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Runnymede