Author: billrider2013

Agra

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Agra 2015

I spent at least one more in Delhi than I planned, not that I really plan. Anyway it was good to revisit the place.

I had asked that people at the Hotel for advice on getting to Agra. I had heard conflicting stories about using the train for catching a bus from fellow travellers. Some said that the train was terrible and very crowded and that because that station in Agra is la long way from the city, it is better to take the bus. The people at the hotel suggested the train.

As it turned out, there is a very good train from Delhi to Bhopal (famous for the Union Carbide industrial gas disaster in 1984) Express which stops in Agra. The Hotel booked me on the train. There was a bit of confusion regarding the ticket which was bought on-line. That was sorted and I set may alarm to wake up at 5.00 a.m.

The walk to the station along Main Bazar Road wasn’t as interesting as I expected. It was dark and fairly crowded as you would expect. Three French women were also heading for the same train. They said they would be pleased if I walked with them.

On the Train

The train was quite comfortable. My carriage was only half full. Given this is the start of a ‘festive season’, I had been led to believe that trains would be crowded. The service was very good with a bottle of water, tea and a hot ‘something’ and biscuits provided.

The track was very smooth and the train was quite fast.
The countryside was flat and all given over to agriculture. We passed through a number of towns/cities, stopping at a couple of bigger ones. We also passed by some villages that looked very poor, with very inadequate housing. Clearly a lot of people were effectively sleeping in the open with only a piece of cloth attached to some poles for shelter.

Good Advice from a Local

As we approached Agra, we were told that the train would only be stopping for 4 minutes. I made my way to the door. An Indian couple struck up a conversation. The bloke told that the only thing Agra was good for was that Taj. He suggested that one day was enough. If was planning of staying, one night was enough. He suggested a hotel in which to stay near the East Gate.

When we left the station a number of the taxis and Tuk-Tuk driver descended on me. The Indian bloke pick one out for me and negotiated a fare to the hotel. I was grateful for his intervention.
The Hotel tuned out to be the Taj Resort. So many Taj’s in this country. It is small but very comfortable.

Back in 1985

When I was on the Foreign Affairs trip I have mentioned before, we had three weekends in Delhi in 1985. This gave us the opportunity to travel out of the city.
On one of those weekends we travelled to Agra for the days. We took the High Commissioner’s car. Before you think we were doing a Bronwyn Bishop, it was all ‘above board’. We paid commercial hire rates for the car and we paid the driver is normal weekend rates.

The Drive

I can recall starting very early in the morning. Progress was slow on what seemed to be a very busy road. The car, a Holden Statesman, was fitted with a super load horn. The driver used it frequently as we picked our way through the traffic. This include cars, motorbikes, bicycles, rickshaws (motorised and human powered) trucks and a variety of carts being towed by motorbikes, animals (horses, donkeys and mules) and people. There were also lots of cows on the road.

Capital City Runs out of Water

I recall that we stopped in place called Fatehpur Sikri before we got to Agra. The place was that capital city of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585. The people had to leave because of a lack of water. I think I thought at the time that this may happen to places like Canberra and Perth. Maybe this is ‘enhanced’ memory in the context of climate change.

Seeing the Taj Mahal

We had a ‘private guide’ when we went to the Taj Mahal. All I can recall was that he seemingly wanted to show us ever “translucent stone” in the palace. Needless to say, there are many of these stones. I recall that it reached a point where we said that enough is enough.

Colleague hit in Ribs by a Cow

Another thing I recall about that visit was my colleague being hit in the ribs by a cow as she walked down a stress in the town. Her reaction was priceless.

Back to 2015

After checking into Hotel I walked towards the Taj Mahal. I had been told by people I had met in Delhi that the ticket office was up the hill from the Palace. There is cart service that takes you from the entrance to the Palace to and from the tickets office.
I still wanted to walk.

The street was remarkably quiet. There are police barriers very 300 metres or so and the only traffic is the ‘ticket carts (battery powered), tuk tuks and horse drawn carts (clearly for tourist use).

The road is being paved. There is clearly a big effort being put into leaning up the place.
After having a look around the area near the East Gate, I caught the ‘ticket cart’ up the hill got my ticket and returned to enter the palace.

There is the obligatory security check better you enter the palace. Security is huge industry in India.

I walked into palace grounds. I was approached by a number of guides offering their services. I recalled the 1985 experience and politely declined their offers.

A Great Sight

There is no doubt that the Taj Mahal is a great sight.

I took heaps of photos, a contrast to my 1985 visit. Notwithstanding the change in technology, I  think the 1985 photos are the best.

Relatively Good Internet

The internet at the hotel was reasonable. I was able to make a few Skype calls.

Very Flash Hotel

In the early evening I walked across the road and checked out the Oberoi Hotel.
I suspect it would meet the high standards one of my Brisbane cousins wife sets. She should check out the link below.

Flickr Links

Agra 1985
https://flic.kr/s/aHskmWKZQ9

Agra 2015
https://flic.kr/s/aHskiKbjT5

Seriously Luxurious Hotel
http://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-agra/

Australian High Commission Delhi

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DSC04257

As I was in Delhi, I decided to visit the Australian High Commission. I have mentioned in previous posts that I visited the High Commission in February 1985 as part of a trip I undertook with the Department of Foreign Affairs.

That trip included, Dhaka in Bangladesh, Bombay and Kathmandu as well as New Delhi. It was the third trip I had undertaken since joining the Department in September 1984. The previous two were to the then USSR, East and West Germany, and New Zealand. This was my first visit to the so called ‘hardship posts’.

In my previous post about Delhi I talked about the day my colleague and I arrived and our attendance at a wedding of one of the High Commission staff.

The Taj Hotel

After the wedding we settled into our hotel- the Taj which is located within the Diplomatic enclave of New Delhi. I had already learned one thing about travelling for Foreign Affairs, you got to stay in very nice hotels. This was to prove to be one of the best.

It is set in quiet large grounds with a large pool. I can recall that on the afternoon we arrived after the wedding, the pool was very crowded. The hotel was used by airlines. I recall that there were a lot of tall blonde women sunning themselves by the pool. Some turned out to be Lufthansa aircrew.

Over the weeks we in Delhi, it was very pleasant to return to the hotel are a ‘hard day’s work’ at the High Commission. It was a real oasis.

On this trip I decided to revisit the hotel. It is still impressive. The reception area is all marble and there are large marble staircase leading to the conference room and restaurants on the floors above and below.

The pool and grounds are still very impress by today’s standards.

The High Commission

The AHC was one of the first foreign missions to be built in the diplomatic enclave in the 1950’s. It is located opposite the British High Commission and the American Embassy is around the corner.

I wanted to revisit the HC for a couple of reasons. I wanted to see if had changed at all. The second reason was to take some photos on behalf of my London host. His father was posted to Delhi as an Australian diplomat with his family. When I was in London I was shown pictures of the compound as it was when they were there.

The day before I headed to the AHC I sent an e-mail, telling them that I wished to visit and why.

Security Presence

I caught the metro and then a Tuk Tuk to the HC. As I approached, I was immediately struck by the security. The wall around the compound is high. There are guards wandering the street and there are signs up staying photography is forbidden.

As I approached that entrance, I was greeted by a guard who asked what I wanted. He didn’t seem to understand what I was saying. Another guard arrived. He directed me to another guard box. By the time I arrived at the next guard box, there had clearly been some communication with the chancellery. I was asked to show my ID and sign that visitor’s book. I then had by backpack checked and I was given a Visitors Pass and directed the main entrance.

Walking Around the Compound

As I approached the Chancellery door, I was greeted by Indian gentleman, unfortunately I didn’t catch his name properly. He told me that he had been in the HC since 1983 and would be showing me around.

Even though I was being accompanied, there restrictions on where I could go. A feature of the compound is the garden in front of the Official Residence and a ‘billabong’. I was only allowed to take photos from the path.

Not much seemed to have changed since 1985, except that the Deputy High Commissioner’s house has be converted in offices.

I took a photo of the tennis court. If my colleague ever gets to read this post and looks at the photos, I am sure it will bring back memories of game play there and she will have a chuckle.

Remembering Friday Night

We passed the Club House. This is used as an informal entertainment area for the High Commission’s staff and guests. My guide made a particular point of noting that it is used for ‘Friday Night Prayers’ – after work drinks.

These were, and obviously still are, a feature of diplomatic life, particularly in the hardship posts. All the friendly Embassies and HC’s (i.e. British, NZ, Canada and the USA) have similar facilities. Staff from the different missions visits each other’s clubs.

When we were in Delhi I recall that the night started in the Australian Club House. We then moved to the British HC across that road. I have a vague recollection of ending up in the USA Marines Club House late at night.

Flickr Link
To be posted when the Internet permits.

Taking the Metro in Delhi

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DSC04255

Probably the biggest change I have noticed in Delhi is the metro train system. It is not that it is physically obvious, particularly in the central area in that a lot of it is underground. Where it is above ground it is mostly on pylons – in the sky.

A Modern System Comparable to Anyway

It is a very good system with modern air conditioned trains running on very smooth tracks at high speeds (for a metro system). There is electronic ticketing and automated gates. It is on par with other ‘new” systems I have seen in Shanghai, Singapore and Seoul. In many respects it is better than ‘old ‘systems in London, Paris, New York, and Rome and in Sydney and Melbourne.
There is no doubt that a good metro train system has more of an impact on a city that simply being a way to get around. It has a social impact.

Two Stories to Illustrate a Point

I recall the Roderick Carnegie (the former head of what is now Rio Tinto the second largest mining company in the world) being interviewed. He said that he liked living in Melbourne rather than Sydney because he could get to work by tram. He said that he travelled to meetings in the CBD by tram. This amazed visitors from Sydney and the USA, less so those from the UK.

Another story I liked was David Attenborough (I don’t have say who he is) talking about travelling on the London Tube. He was standing on a District Line train heading to South Kensington. A girl sitting below him was reading his autobiography and did not notice, or pretended not to notice, that he was standing front of her.

The point of these stories is to highlight that impact of good public transport of society. It brings most levels of society together.

It also so encourages civil behaviour.

Women on the Delhi Metro

In the case of Delhi, it is notable that the behaviour on the trains is excellent. There is no splitting, no litter, and the people are generally courteous and wait in line to get off and on the trains.

There is a heavy security presence, but that is unfortunately necessary.

The attitudes to women and the attitudes of women are also interesting.
The front carriage is reserved for women. I didn’t bother looking whether they were are more or less used than other carriages.

In the carriages I caught, there was a mixture of ages, gender and (I assume) class. There are signs on some seats indicating women have preference. I saw numerous case where men stood and offered seats to older women irrespective as whether it was a ‘preferred’ woman’s seat or not.

On one occasion, a middle aged woman got on the train. A younger well dressed man was sitting in the ‘preferred seat’ (he looked like the equivalent of an ex-Shore Boy who was up himself) She stood over him and stared. He eventually got the message and stood up. I suspect she had noticed that I had been watching and smiled. The man walked to the end of the carriage.

I suspect an encounter like that would not have occurred between a Delhi man and woman on bus 30 years ago.

Back in to Different Word

The Metro runs about a kilometre from where I am staying in the Main Bazar, a very old and traditional area of Delhi. It is run down (in a nice way) and chaotic.
As you exit the air-conditioned and orderly Metro, you are met with the sounds and smells of ‘old’ Delhi.

There is a queue of bicycle Rickshaw operators. I took one back to my Hotel.

The contrast between the Metro and the Rickshaw ride is a quintessential Indian experience.

Flickr Link
To come Internet permitting

Arriving in Delhi

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DSC04237

Arriving In Delhi
I left my London host’s place fairly early. It was a beautiful day and I decided to spend some time in the West End before heading out to Gatwick to catch the plane to Delhi.

I went into Fortnum Mason for a Welsh Rarebit. I really must get their recipe. Or made be I shouldn’t, because if I managed to make one just like theirs, I would be eating Welsh Rarebits every day.

After a bit of wandering around, I caught the train to airport.

The Flight
The plane turned out to be an A380. I thought it would be a smaller plane. Anyway is was packed. The airlines are very good at maximising their seat utilisation these days.

It was possible to use the internet on the plane. I saw this before on my flight to Iceland from New York last year. It still amazes me. I recall how I loved being on the plane during business trips with Caltex and Foreign Affairs before the days of laptops and the internet. It was not possible to be contacted.

During the flight I communicated with my Balmain host who was in Dubai and scheduled to catch a plane to Sydney an hour after I was scheduled to arrive.

Short Layover

It was a short layover in Dubai and I had to change terminals for the connecting flight to Delhi. The internet in the airport was a pain to use and I was not able to contact my Balmain host. I was later to learn that he could not get the internet in the airport to work at all. That is the way of technology. It worked and 40K feet, but didn’t work in one of the most modern buildings in the world.

The flight from Dubai was relatively short.

Taste of Indian Bureaucracy

India is famous for a number of things. One is mindless bureaucracy. I experienced this first hand when I visited in early 1985 when I was working for Foreign Affairs.

It would appear that things have changed little in the intervening period.
As you get off the plane you are confronted by an official who checks if you have a passport.
I then joined the queue for the holders of ‘e visas’. Given that this was an automated system I though the processing would be relatively fast. It was taking 10 to 15 minutes to processes each person.

When I reached the end of the queue, I handed over the printed receipt for the visa. I noticed a young girl at the next desk showing her receipt on her mobile phone. She was not going to be going anywhere fast.

I am not sure what the bloke was doing on the other side of the desk. Whatever it was, it wasn’t as simple was scanning the visa receipt and matching the details with my passport and my face. There was a lot of typing and writing.

He then took my photo and asked me to put my fingers and thumb on a finger print machine. Where and why they are stored is anyone’s guess.

Finally my passport was stamped.

As I continued on I was asked to show my passport two more times. The first bloke did not check if I had a visa. That could have been reasonable as a check to ensure the bloke at the desk was doing his job properly.

I asked the second bloke who wanted to check my passport, “why are you doing this, you can see that I have just come from the immigration desk and someone else has looked at my passport since then”? His response was “it is Indian process”. I just walked off.

Taxis into the City

I had arranged with my hotel to be picked up at the airport. My driver met me outside the departure gate. The ‘taxis’ was a metal box on four wheels.

Remembering Arriving in Delhi in February 1985

As we headed into the city, I recalled the last time I was met at the airport in Delhi in 1985.
My Foreign Affairs colleague and I had flown in to Delhi from Bombay (now known as Mumbai). We were met by the Attaché in the High Commissioner’s car. The High Commission was out of town in Pakistan.

It was a weekend and the Attaché told us that, if we were interested, we could go with him to a wedding. The wedding was of a member of the High Commission’s gardening staff to a girl from his village. He told us that they were from the lower Castes. We told him that we were interested.
We dropped our luggage off at the hotel and headed directly to the wedding. The Attache told us that there would be other members of the High Commission staff at the wedding as it was good for staff morale for the Australian based staff to be seen at these events. He also told us the staff had collected some money to be given to the couple.

At this point I need to note that my colleague was 25, female, very attractive and she was wearing a ‘light dress’.

When the car stopped we were met by a number of Indian gentlemen. These turned out to be relatives of the bridegroom. It was to later transpire that because we had arrived in the High Commissioner’s car, it was assumed that we must have been very important and as such, we were the honoured guests.

We were escorted to a large tent which was crowded with other quests including Australian and Indian staff from the High Commission. The Attaché introduced us to several people including an Indian woman who said she was the High Commissioner’s Protocol Advisor. She told us that we would “shortly offered food”. She said that we should accept it, but try not to eat it”.

We chatted away to the other guests holding the plates of foods. A various times the Protocol Advisor approached us from behind. As we turned to her she swapped our plates for another one will less food on it. I am sure the Indian guests noticed, but nothing was said.

While talking to the Australian staff, we were told that this was traditional ‘arranged marriage’ and the bride was meeting the groom for the first time. The ceremony was quite complicated with a number of stages and it was officiated by a number of priests. We were told that some of the stages had been completed and it was now time for us the ‘honoured guests’ to now participate, including handing over the cash that the High Commission staff had collected.

The ceremony was taking place under a canopy and there was a small fire burning. The Bride and Groom were sitting on cushions.
The first thing I noticed was how distraught the Bride was – she was howling with tears pouring down her face.

The other thing I noticed was how that Groom was looking at my colleague. As noted before she was young, very attractive and wearing a ‘light dress’. It was hot and the fire was making us hotter, everyone was sweating. He seemed to be fixated by my colleague.

After a couple of minutes, the ceremony appeared to stop and major argument erupted, behind us. We were later told that the dispute related to the how much one of the priests was demanding to be paid. It appeared that some of ‘gods messengers’ want more that others.

The dispute was resolved and the ceremony continued.

My colleague was clearly concerned as to how upset the Bride was. She told me that this “was terrible and it had to be stopped”.

I can’t recalled the full conversation, but it went along the lines that: I said it probably wasn’t for us to decide on that. She responded, that she didn’t care what I thought, it was just wrong what was happening to the girl………… As we had our little discussion the ceremony continued.

Finally, it came to the point where we were to hand over the cash gift. My colleague took the envelope and thrust it towards the couple with a clear look of displeasure. The transfixed Groom took the money and my colleague stormed off.

Back to October 2015

The ride into the city from the airport was slow. This wasn’t due to lots of animals on the road. It is my recollection that this was an issue in 1985. This time it was the volume of traffic.
There are lines on the road delineating lanes, but no one takes any notice of them.

Check out the Flickr link for a video.

At one point we stopped to get LNG fuel for the taxis. The driver paid over 400 rupees. I don’t know how many trips to the airport he can do on that, but my fare was 500 rupees.

In the Hotel

It took nearly two hours to get to the hotel in the Main Bazar. The location is infamous for a bombing that took place in October 2005. Check out the link below.
The hotel is very basis, but all that I need.

Walk to Connaught Place

Next day I walked into Connaught Place. It is the main Business and Shopping area of New Delhi. The fabric of the place does not have appeared to have changed much since 1985. What is notable, however is the number of international brand shops there are now. All major city shopping areas are looking the same.

Watching the Rugby

In the evening I found a bar that was showing the Rugby World Cup game between Australia and Wales. I was that only one watching this try less, but tight encounter.
It looks as though it will be a Wallabies v All Blacks final on the 31st.

Flickr Link
https://flic.kr/s/aHskmpnbKm

Link to Information on Main Bazar Bombing

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2005_Delhi_bombings

Link to Information on Connaught Place
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connaught_Place,_New_Delhi

Canterbury to Rome Days 28 to 30 – Over the Simplon Pass into Italy

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Simplon Pass

I stayed a couple of days in Geneva.

I recalled that the first time in the city was way back in 1966. I was with my parents when we visited our neighbours in Canberra who were on a five year posting to Geneva with what was then, the Department of Trade.

Bad Memories of Ice Skating

Even though it was a long time ago, I can remember some tings of the visit. One was being taken to an ice skating rink. The girls of the family were both good skiers and skaters by this stage of their posting. I can recall being encouraged to skate towards the centre of the rink, presumably to get away from the fast moving expert skaters circling the around the outside. This proved to be a not such a good idea and I kept falling over and didn’t have a wall to hold onto. All in all, I can recall thinking that ice skating wasn’t much fun.

Many years later, I took my daughter ice skating at rink in large shopping centre Sydney. This was also not the pleasant of experience. Albeit that by this time I could ‘sort of skate’, I fell and hit my head. As a result of the fall, I suffered a slight gash on my skull that bled profusely. The First Aid people at the rink bandaged my head. My daughter was so embarrassed she tried, successfully, to keep as far away from me a possible was be walked through the shopping centre back to our car.

Thai Dinner

On Friday evening, I met with a friend of my London Hosts. She has been living in Geneva for over 10 years. We went to a Thai restaurant. Being a very international city, Geneva has restaurants representing most nationalities.

I have had a lot of Thai meals – in Thailand, Australia and elsewhere. This meal was very good. I must note, however, that it would have to have been the most expensive (largely due to the high values of the Swiss Franc) Thai meal that I have ever encountered.

I was great to meet a chat with someone that I had heard about for some time but had yet to meet.

Train Back to Brig

I has decided to take train back to Brig. It was there that I would take the Simplon Pass over to Italy.

I had passed through Brig on my ride down the Rhone from Andermatt. I Wasn’t impressed with the place at all. I had checked the internet for a camp site before I left Genève. There was one just out of Brig on the road to the Simplon Pass.

When I got out of the train station I realised that when I had riden through town over a week ago, I had been on the ‘bad side of the track’. There is another side, and it is very nice.

As I headed to the campsite I came across a group of fellow cyclists also looking for the same place. They were an extended German family. The relationships between them seemed to be very complicated – children, daughter’s in-law etc. It was interesting to see such a large family group travelling together, all on bikes.

The camp sites was very good. However, the nearby stream was running very fast was amazingly noisy.

Very slow climb to Simplon Pass

It was time to begin the long slow ride to the Simplon Pass.

As I headed out of Brig, I could see the road that I was to take high above. Part of it was a series of bridges. I knew that these parts, at least, would not be too steep.

It was quite hot as passed through the first 6 klm point of the climb.

Not long after that I came across a section of the road that was under repair. As with most road works that I have ever encountered, there seem to be more people standing round than there were actually working. It would seem that this is universal way of operating in road construction.

Not long after the road works the road turned away from the main Rhone Valley and headed east.   As I continued the temperature continued to rise. The Garmin says it got to 35 centigrade. I think that this time, the device was probably correct.

Stop for a Sandwich

I stopped at a café for probably most expensive ham and cheese sandwich I have very had.

As I ate my sandwich I chatted with an English couple that told me that they were head home after spending some time in their house near Bellagio on Lake Como. I got the impression that the cost of the sandwiches would not have been a big issue for them.

More Roadworks

As headed on up and up, I can across more road works. These were on parts of the road that were covered to protect it from rock falls. There was a lot of activity with tractors, graders and diggers buzzing around.

There was also a lot of traffic with only one lane open and cars and truck moving alternatively, up and down that mountain.

As various times I was forced off the road on to the lane where the construction work was occurring. The noise and the proximity to the traffic and the construction machines was not pleasant.

Suddenly Cold

As I approached the top of the Pass the temperature suddenly dropped.

Decided to Stop

I pulled into strange looking circular building that was clearly a café/ restaurant. I needed hot drink.

I noted and sign saying ‘Zimmer frei’. Just what I needed – a room for the night. Albeit, I was still in Switzerland the cost wasn’t too over the top. Only one eye watered.

The circular design of the building must have driven the builders, in particular the bricklayers, nuts. Check out the Flickr Photos.

Fast Down

The weather wasn’t too flash when I left the hotel in the morning.

Almost immediately the road was quite steep. However, unlike the road up, there were not many curves.

I found myself going very quickly. The Garmin tells me that it was 79.8 kilometres per hour. That is probably a bit silly.

I saw the sign for the turn off the Simplon Dorf and moved into the exit lane and tried to slow down. It was obvious that I was not going to be able to stop at upcoming intersection. Fortunately there were no cars around and I made it around the corner. Check the Flickr Video

Steep Cliffs

The next section of the road was very spectacular. The cliffs on either side are very close. A lot of the road is covered to protect it from rock slides.

It was a bit unfortunate that it had started to rain, which made riding miserable and somewhat dangerous. Check the Flickr Video.

Crossing the Border

I crossed that border into Italy and continued down the valley towards Lake Maggiore. About 20 klms short of the Lake I stop in small town for a coffee.

Sleeping with Marilyn Munro I

The place where I had the coffee was a hotel with EUR 20 rooms. Given that it had started to rain, I decided to stop. The restaurant in the hotel was surprising busy. I had a spaghetti on account of being in Italy.

Marilyn Munro look down upon as I sept in a bed two days in row.

Flickr Photos

https://flic.kr/s/aHskiNVPNC

Flickr Videos

https://flic.kr/s/aHskikPCBq

Garmin Links

Up the Simplon Pass

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/870721221

681 metres to 1,999 metres

Average moving speed 7.3 kph

Down the Simplon Pass

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/870721365

Maximum Speed 79.8 kph

Canterbury to Rome Days 25 to 27 – Into Geneva

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Geneva

After spending a day in the very good camping ground near Fully, it was time to head on to Lake Geneva.

The route took me along the Rhone which was progressively getting bigger and bigger. The speed of the water is amazing. What you also notice is that, unlike rivers like the Murray or Murrumbidgee in Australia, the Rhone goes in the relatively straight line.

Fish Lunch

I hadn’t travelled too far when I came across a small restaurant that was very busy. It had started to rain so I decided to stop for lunch. I see why the place was busy – it was very good.

It continued to rain sporadically as I headed towards Villeneuve. My original plane had been to ride beyond Montreux, however as I approached the lake I came across camping ground. I checked in and quick set up my tent before the rain really stated to come down.

Short Ride

Next day was really short ride. I had not gone much past Montreux when I came across a really nice little camp site right of the lake. The weather was very hot.

I decided that that was far enough for the day. I pitched my tent and went for a swim. The place had a small café. The owner convinced me to have a cheese fondue. It is really is a winter meal not the thing for a hot summer’s day.

Continuing on along the Lake

In the morning I had a chat to a young German couple that were camped next to me. They had decided to stay an extra day because “it was so restful and wonderful to see at [sic]”.

I headed off down the lake. The wealth and prosperity of Switzerland is palpable in this part of the country. All the cars are the latest model Mercedes and BMWs etc. The houses and apartments all seem to be luxurious. The café s and restaurants are mainly upmarket, not cheap take a way joints. There are marinas with very snazzy yachts dotted all along the lake.

I had thought about taking the ferry from Nyon across to France and heading into Geneva from that side of the lake.

I stopped Rolle notice sign to a ferry stop. I checked out the prices of the ferries. My eyes watered. I noticed another sign to a campsite. I rode to the site and decided to stop.

As I was setting up my tent and couple of blokes arrive with Bob Trailers. These are an alternative to us panniers.

They turned out to be Columbians living and working in France. One told me that me the he was a physicist working at Strasbourg University He said that he had done his Phd on an X ray detector. He told me a lot about it. He was now trying to bring his invention to the point when it could go into production. He said that this was difficult to do in France, particularly if you were not French.  He said it was very frustrating and he was seriously thinking of moving to the USA.

Short ride into Geneva

It was a relatively short ride into Geneva in the morning. I stopped short of the city and had a very expensive (in AUD) lunch in restaurant in park by the lake. It was a great view across lake to the city and the famous water spout.

As I rode into city along the lake, I recalled my first visit to Geneva in 1966. That is an awful long time ago.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskeBX8jx

Garmin Links

To Lake Geneva

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/860224930

Short Ride past Monteux

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/863308101

Along the Lake

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/863308129

Into Geneva

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/863308146

Canterbury to Rome Days 22 to 24 – South from Andermatt

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Furka Pass

I rode into Basle from Huningue. As it turned out I had to wait until nearly 4.00 p.m. before I could board the first of 3 trains that were to take me to Andermatt.

Expensive meal

It was quite late when I finally arrived in Andermatt. I knew that there was a campsite just out of town. It only operates in summer and you use that facilities in ski lift terminal and that is over the road.

I headed into town and order a meal. This was my first experience of Swiss prices being converted into the relatively weak Australian dollar. I makes camping wherever possible a necessity rather than an option.

Very Tough Cyclist

Back at the camp site I got into a conversation with bloke from Belgium who told me that he had been cycling in Australia last year. He had ridden from Melbourne to Darwin, via wester NSW and Queensland.

I was impressed. I was doubly impressed when he rolled his left trouser leg up to reveal a prosthetic limb below his knee. He casually took of the limb and hopped towards his tent.

Getting Advice

In the morning I stopped to have a coffee in small café that also sold maps. The owner turned out to be cyclist. He was interested in my trip.

He told me that I would find that climb over the Furka Pass “difficult with all that luggage”. He also told me to watch out for the motorbikes, however “it won’t be a busy as it gets over the weekend”. He also gave me some advice regarding cycling in Italy. In short he suggested taking the train through the “shitty bits – it a bit 3rd world in parts”.

Over the Furka Pass

At the bottom of the Furka Pass there is a sign that tells you that over the next 13 kilometres, you will be climbing over 800 metres. I have done bigger climbs in Australia from Corryong to Thredbo, but with not as much stuff on the bike.

James Bond Spot

The climb is a classic zig zag alpine road. At one point I came across a sign and a plague pointing out that the this road was used in a scene in the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger. Check out the Flickr link and the link to YouTube.

After the zig zag bit, the road goes in a relatively straight line to the summit of the pass. This was the toughest part of the climb. It is really annoying when you can see where you have to get to, but it takes forever to get there.

Ice Cream and Beer Stops

I stopped for a coffee and ice cream at one point. I had a beer at the rather dilapidated restaurant at the top of pass.

Fast Ride Down

It was an extremely fast ride down the other side of the pass. The Flickr videos say it all.

Campsite by the river

I was basically knackered when I got on to the Rhone Valley floor on the other side of the pass.

As I was riding along the cycle path, I came across a nice little campsite. I decided that would do me just fine and checked in.

It was a great spot, but there was problem having a shower. It required a ½ Franc Coin for a couple of minutes. The shop at the site didn’t have any of those coins. I was rescued by a Dutch couple, who have several. They made the comment that it was “absurd to charge for showers when you are paying so much for the site”.

Detour to Rome Bridge

As I headed to Brig, the route took a turn away from the main Rhone valley into a forest. The track became a dirt path down to a stone bridge. Some walkers told me that it was an ancient Roman Bridge. The climb up from the bridge was so steep I had to walk the bike.

Getting lost after Brig

I became a bit lost after Brig. As stopped to look at my map and fellow cyclist stop. He turned out to be yet another Dutchman – the place has to be empty. He told me that I was on the right path.

It wasn’t too long before I seemed to have lost the path again. As it turn out the same bloke came passed me again. I asked him if he knew if there were are camp sites nearby. He said he was staying at one and he led me to it. It turned out to excellent.

Australia out for 60

I checked the cricket score on the internet. Unbelievable.

Heading towards Lake Geneva

I was bit slow getting started the next morning.

At one point I was passed by women on an electric bicycle. She slowed down for chat. She told that she was heading to Lausanne. She told that she lived in Zurich and was having a weekend ride.

We ended up riding together for the remainer of the day. I was extremely hot. Just short of a town called Fully, my fellow cyclist spotted a sign to a hotel and campsite. We checked in out.

The place turned out to fantastic. It has good pool, restaurant and shop.

I decide to stay two nights.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskh6cdYi

Garmin Links

Over the Furka Pass

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/856927267

South of Brig

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/856927331

To Near Fully

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/857977586

Link to You Tube Goldfinger Clip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RdK51Igeqc

Canterbury to Rome Day 21 – To Huningue

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Huningue

On the Sunday I spent some time in the tourist office. A very nice girl was interested in my trip. She told me that she was s cyclists and gave me a map of the cycle routes in the area.

The Eurovelo Route 5 that brought me into town along the canal, heads west after Colmar. The other option to stay on the canal. I decide to take the Route 5.

The route follows small farm roads through vineyards overlooking the river valley below.

Stop for dessert

I stopped for lunch at about 1.50 p.m. This was too late for a full meal. All I was able to order was dessert, a very large cheesecake.

I passed a WW1 on the Vieil Armand battlefield. This yet another place where thousands of lives were lost. This time all the soldiers that were killed were French and Germans.

Into Mulhouse

The route took me into a city called Mulhouse. It is a fairly drab place. As usual it was difficult to find the cycle route leaving the city.

I had to ask people a number of times how to get to the canal and the cycle path.

On the canal path

After leaving Mulhouse I was back on the cycle path that follows the canal. It was quite late and I had been in the saddle for over seven hours. I expected to find campsites on the canal. I knew that there was one in Huningue, however I was more than happy to stop if there was one before then.

As it turned out, there was no place to stay before Huningue.

Camping at Petite Port

My trip is vaguely following the route taken by an English bloke who rode from Canterbury to Rome. He stopped in Huningue and stayed at the Petite Port camping ground. He described it as “being a favourite place for cyclists and kayakers”. He was right, the place was full of cyclists – mainly Dutch as usual- people that kayak down the Rhine.

He also described the experience of having to cross the Rhine into Germany to buy anything. There is huge shopping centre just over the bridge in Germany. It would appear that the shops in France have given up.

I decided to stay in Huningue for the day. I took the opportunity to cross into Germany for a haircut. I was allocated a very young girl to do the cut. I am certain that I must have been one of her first, if not the first, paying customer she had. A number of customers came and went as she cut my hair. She also took the opportunity to practice her English, which she told me was “very important to be proficient at”.

As it turned out, I think she did a very good job. I am not sure if the owner on the shop would have made any money out of the cut.

Kayaking

In the afternoon I when for a walk on the canal that runs off the Rhine. Next to the canal there is stream that has very fast flowing water. There were a lot people kayaking and using small ‘body board’ type floating things. I looked like heaps of fun.

Train to Andermatt

I had done a bit of research into the cycling options in Switzerland. There are four main National Cycling Routes. One goes from Basel to Andermatt. This follows the Rhine.

The one which is generally thought to be the best route is the Route 1 that follows that Rhone from Andermatt to Geneva.

I decided to take the train to Andermatt. In the morning I packed up and headed across the Swiss border into Basle and the caught the first leg of the train journey to Andermatt.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskhsS4of

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/853471295

Canterbury to Rome Day 20 – To Colmar

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DSC03560

I got a bit lost leaving Strasbourg. The cycle route is known as the Rhine Route, but actually follows that canal that is surprising far from the river.

I rode through some industrial areas on arterial road that were next to the main highway. There were a number of very scantily dresses ladies, young and old on the road – an interest place to pick up business.

Finally on the Canal

I finally found the canal and the cycle track.

It was a straight forward route to Colmar.

The campsite was easy to find being at the end of the canal.

Quiet Night

Colmar is a very popular tourist town. I headed off looking for place to eat. It was surprisingly quiet for a Saturday night. I ended up eating in an Italian restaurant.

Long Lunch

I decided to stay the day in Colmar. I walked back into the town and had a very long lunch of mussels and beer, reading and listening to podcasts.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskgSzcLS

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/850968794

Canterbury to Rome Day 17 to 19 – to Nancy and on to Strasbourg

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DSC03508

Canterbury to Rome Day 17 to 19 – to Nancy and on to Strasbourg

It was after 2.00 p.m. on Sunday when I finally left Metz. I had to wait until after 10 before any of the cafes opened. I then had a long breakfast which seemed to merge into lunch. I took advantage of reasonable internet speeding in the café to upload some photos and videos. I so miss that high speed internet that I experienced in South Korea and the beginning of the year.

Canal

I left Metz following a canal. I am not sure if it was the right route, but it seemed to work okay.

After a while I was back in the Moselle proper.

On highway

This went all very well until I was passed a town called Pont a Mousson. I was following cycling signs when suddenly I found myself on a main highway that turned into a motorway.

I couldn’t find any way of getting off the road. At one point a van stopped. It appeared to be some sort of road maintenance van and the driver started yelling at me in French. He was clearly telling me that I should not be on the road. I told him in English that I “didn’t want to be on his F%&*ing road” and pointed to the river. I think he understood where I wanted to be and drove off.

Campsite

The girl at the reception of the campsite in Metz had written down that address of a campsite just north of Nancy. It took a bit of finding.

As I was checking in the Russian bloke arrived. He had left Metz a long time before me. He told me that most of the trail he took from Pont a Mousson was dirty track. I had obviously missed a sign.

As I was setting up my tent I got into conversation with a Dutch bloke who was erecting a huge tent next door. He hold me that he probably over done the tent given it was only for him, his wife and two small twins. It was so big I think he should be paying land tax.

Ride into Nancy

I was about a 20 klm ride into Nancy the next morning.

Nancy has a really impressive Square. I had a really good meal in a restaurant on the square.

Train to Strasbourg

After lunch I head to the railway station to buy ticket for the short ride to Strasbourg.

Hostel

I had booked into a hostel on the Rhine River. It turned out to be about 6 klms from the centre of Strasbourg.

Walk into Germany

I asked the English girl who was working on the reception where the nearest shops were. She told that the nearest shop was over the river in Germany.

I guess that is often the case in border areas, but it does sound a bit funny when you are advised to walk into another country to buy a tube of toothpaste and a beer.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/J2YG60

Garmin Links

To Liverdun

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/845424145

Into Nancy

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/846498726

Strasbourg

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/846498750