I arrived in Marshfield late. My hosts were in the final stages of preparing a meal.

They had other quests – one of the host’s older brother, his wife and their daughter and son in-law and their young on.

I had a quick shower and joined the gathering for the meal.

Excellent Meal and Conversations

It was a great meal.

I had not seen my hosts’ bother for nearly 40 years. We talked about that first time that we met back in 1996 we he was touring Australia with a Great Britain sporting team and visited my parents in Canberra.  He went on to play with that team in the Mexico Olympics.

During the course meal there were a number of stories about my hosts’  father and my father in their young days in the north east of England.

There were also very funny sporting stories including one about my host’s older brothers playing doubles tennis against some ‘big name’ Australian players and doing rather better than expected.

Preparation for the Mini Festival

The next day, the big activity was to help my guests’ daughter and son in law prepare for a mini-festival (party).

The couple bought a house on acreage near Marshfield about a year ago. It has the most amazing view of the St Catherine valley.

As far as the ‘crow flies’, it is a relatively short distance from Marshfield to the couple’s house.  However, to drive, it is rather a long way along very narrow lanes.  My host drives along these lanes very quickly.

My skill set didn’t result in me providing too much assistance to the preparation for the party.  However, I did provide moral support as my host completed several tasks including table repairs and sign writing.

Friday in the Catherine Wheel

With the tasks completed we returned to village.

Before dinner, we went to the local pub. From my experience (5 years), it is always crowded on a Friday night.  This night was no exception.  A high proportion of the villagers go to the pub on a Friday night for a weekly catch up.

One of my hosts spotted an “Aussie who had recently moved into the village”.  She was keen to introduce me to the said “Aussie”.

We recognised each other immediately- he was from the same suburb in Sydney where I lived. We have a number of mutual friends and ex-friends (‘ex’ as a result of my divorce) and had seen a bit of each other at various social and sporting events over the years.

He told me that he was originally from “Bath and had decided to sell up in Sydney and move back to England after retiring.

He has had to deal with some sad personal issues.  I hope he is happy in the village.

Australia beaten in Melbourne

Next morning, we watched the 2^nd Australia v England Rugby Test that was being played in Melbourne.  One of my hosts lived in Melbourne for many years and she is a Wallabies supporter. The other host is English and is not a Wallabies support.

We were joined in watching the game by a bloke from the village.  He had played top level Rugby some years ago.  He was very knowledge about the game.

Part way through the game, when it appeared that England would win, one of my hosts (the England supporter) disappeared.  He returned wearing a Wallabies jersey.  He is a very brave man. The other host was not pleased.

Mini Festival

Late in the afternoon we headed off to the party.

It was a quintessential early summers’ evening in the English countryside – soft light, mild temperature and the air full of the stuff the makes you sneeze and makes your eyes water (i.e. hay fever).

I found that drinking beer and wine is a could cure for hay fever

Waterslide

There was a lot going on. The big hit for the children was a water slide.  The slide consisted of two large sheets of plastic on a steep slope.  All that need to be added was some water from a hose and the occasional squirt of detergent.

The video tells it all as far as the enjoyment it delivered.

In the next field, the party hosts had placed some hay bales around a fire pity.  The fire was used to fry marshmallows.

Interesting Chats

A lot of the quests sat on the hay bales chatting.  I had a number of interesting conversations with other quests.

A couple I chatted to run neighbouring farms.  They told me that they were very pleased that the hosts of the party had move into the area with their young family.  They said it was so good to have people “actually living on the property rather than it being owned by some ultra-rich Russian Oligarch or film star”.

From where we were sitting, we could look down on a house that was once owned by the actress Jane Seymour.  It is now owned by a mysterious Russian.

Some Music

Early in the evening we were entertained by a Samba band.  They were really good.  Check out the video.

Later in the evening there was more music proved by a couple on young blokes. They appear to be going places.  Again, checkout the video.

Ride to Lunch

Another event during my stay was Sunday Lunch at pub in a valley near Cirencester.

The plan was for my host and I to ride to the pub.  The other host was to drive and meet us, and their friends at the pub.  My host had estimated that ride would take 2 and half hours.

Part way there, it was obvious that we were not going to be there in time.  After some phone calls it was agreed that the driving host would pick us up.

I suspect that my relatively slow ‘moving average’ speed had something to do with the change in plan.

The lunch was great.

Clean up after the Party

Another actively was helping the party hosts, clean up.  There wasn’t a huge amount to do – pulling down bunting and flags and packing up the plastic used for the waterside etc.

One task was to move the hay bales into a shed.  This involved loading up the recently purchased Landrover with the hay bales.

Getting the Landrover out of the field turned to be a bit of a challenge. Again the video tells a story.

Art Work

On my last evening in the village, I was privileged to see a very significant piece of art work.

I also got to meet the person that was doing some restoration work on the piece.

My host invited that person for dinner. To say this boke is a ‘bit of a character’ is an understatement.

Leaving in the Rain

Next morning it was time to leave the village.

I delayed my departure a little bit to avoid the worst of some passing showers.

My hosts were keen to record my departure with ‘a photo or ten’ as a reminder that it does happen.

That was the end on another great stay.

Back to Devizes

I took a direct route to Bath.

From there I headed along the Kennet and Avon canal on Cycle Route 4 to a camping ground a few kilometres before Devizes.

 

Flickr Links

Mini Festival (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/38Z62U

Other Marshfield (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/mw90NB

Art (Restricted Access)

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/jz8g68

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1217867130#

 

It was raining lightly when I left Henley on Thames and headed towards Reading.  I had expected to be able to ride along the river and was surprised to find that it was not possible.  The ride into Reading was a bit ordinary, mainly on bike paths next to busy roads.

Finding the Canal

I stopped in Reading for a late breakfast and to sort out some issues with my Sony phone.  I now have three phones – the Sony Xperia, a new Samsung S7 and a very basic Telstra So I can get SMS message on my Australian number.  Only the Samsung appears to be hassle free.

It took me awhile to find the Cycle Route 4.  The route follows the Kennet and Avon canal.  You would think that it would be easy to find – just head for the canal.  A surprising number of people in Reading seem to oblivious to the existence of the canal.

Remembering 2012

This is the fifth year in a row that I have ridden on the Cycle Route 4, albeit it is only the second time that I have headed West from Reading.  I can vividly remember my first time, back in June 2012.

As I started on that ride, the West of England through to London was experiencing its worst spring weather in over 50 years.  There was torrential rain and gale force winds. I headed into that weather.

It was extraordinary: the rain was heavy and often horizontal was I rode into the westerly winds.  I tell people that it was “difficult to distinguish the towpath from the canal”, as there was so much water on the path.

In 2012, I only made it as far Wotton Waters.  I recall staying at great little pub that did B&B called the Royal Oak.

My plan this year was to get to Devizes which is further west.

A bit Slow

As it turned out, I didn’t travel as fast as I expected.  My time off the bike since September last year and reduced level of fitness was hindering my progress.  I clearly wasn’t going to make it to Devizes on this day.

The Route 4 took me passed the above mentioned Royal Oak.  I was looking forward to staying there again.  I was very disappointed to find that they were fully booked, and the last room had only just be taken.

The bloke in the pub old me that “the Golden Swan in Didcot does camping”.  I headed on the Didcot.

England draw with Russia

It was after 8.00 p.m. by the time I arrived in Didcot. The pub’s kitchen was about to close.  The only meal available was “pie of the day”.  I had no option except to order it.

As I ate my meal I watched England playing Russia in the European Cup Football. England were expected to win and were leading 1-0 up until the final minutes when Russia score an equaliser.

A group of blokes in the pub were also watching the game.  They didn’t seem the slightest bit surprised at the result.  English soccer supporters have very low expectations when it comes to their national team.

The Pie wasn’t Good

After the soccer was finished, I climbed into my tent.  I wasn’t there long before I had to rush to the toilet – I suspect that the “pie of the day” was made with the leftovers from yesterday.

I didn’t have the greatest of the night’s sleep.  My Fitbit tells me that I was ‘awake’ 4 times during the night. I won’t go into detail about what I did while I was awake.

Continue to Devises

In the morning I headed on to Devizes on quite roads that run parallel to the canal.

I re-joined the canal at Devizes and continued west.  About 2 kilometres from the town are the Caen Locks.  They are amazing.  Check out the Flickr Link for the video.

No Call to the Barge Inn

After the locks, I continued on to the Barge Inn.

It is a great Pub on the canal.   I have stopped at this pub several times.

As I mentioned above, in 2012 the weather was really bad.  I stopped at the pub for lunch. While I was eat eating, I ‘Check in’ on Facebook.  One of my Marshfield hosts saw the post.

He rang the pub and asked to be put through to the restaurant.  He told the waitress that “there was a very wet Australian cyclist in restaurant” and asked that “phone be taken to him”.  I was very surprised to be given the phone.

It makes a good story.

This year the food was good as every other year.

I checked in the pub on Facebook, but I didn’t get a call.

Not a good route to Marshfield

After lunch, I continued west of the canal, before heading towards Chippenham, en route to Marshfield.

Marshfield is a great little village, but I always find it difficult to navigate there.  I blame the Garmin, but I think I have something to do with my problem.  This year I manage to take a very circuitous route to the village.

It was just on dinner time when I arrived at my hosts house.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/b4v75n

Garmin Link

When the internet permits

I spent over a week in London SW18. It was great.  As usual my hosts were very generous.  It was great to be back in London. It did some tourist stuff, caught up with family, went to the Bruce Springsteen concert at Wembley and the Coral King Musical in the West End.

I also had my bike serviced.

Slow to Get Going

It was time to head off on the bike.  It took me at little longer than expected to pack-up and leave the house.  I think my host was getting worried that I wasn’t going to leave.

Lock-up

My first stop was my lock-up where I collected by tent and other camping gear.

Finally Riding

I was finally off and riding.  I had determined a ‘vague’ route to Henley on Thames.  You can never trust the Garmin to plot any route longer than 10klms.  I asked it to get me to Kingston on Thames.  I could gone along the Thames river, but that is very round- about way and I have ridden on that part of the river many times.

The Garmin took me across Wimbledon Common and on mainly back roads to Kingston on Thames.

On the River

At Kingston on Thames, I picked up the Sustrans Cycle Route No 4.  This one of the most popular cycle routes in the UK.

I headed along the river.

After a short distance, I came across the Molesey Cricket Club.  It is quintessential ‘village’ cricket ground.  Even though it was a Friday, the club house was open and serving food. I had a sandwich.

Hampton Court

Next stop was Hampton Court. This was the favourite residence of King Henry VIII. I remember taking a lot of visitors there in the late 1970’s.

Hampton Court was the finishing point of the cycling time trial in the 2012 Olympics.  It was great venue for the event.

Runnymede

I continue along the river towards Windsor.  Close to the town, I left the Route 4 to stop off at Runnymede, ‘the birthplace of the Rule of Law and Democracy’.

It is considered that Runnymede is the most likely location at which, in 1215, King John sealed Magna Carta, which signified the primacy of Parliament over the Crown.

Windsor

I continued on to Windsor.  This was dodgy bit.  The road was very busy with no verge.

Rain Hits

As I left Windsor towards Maidenhead, the sky darkened.  It was soon pissing down with rain.  I stopped in service station hoping that it would clear.

It didn’t.  I donned my wet weather jacket and continue on.

Big Hill

The route took me over the M4 several times.  That is seriously busy road.

As I approached Henley on Thames I had to ride over a hill.  I found it very difficult.  I am clearly unfit.

Pitching the Tent

It was after 9.00 p.m. went I finally arrive at the Swiss Farm Camping Ground.  I have stayed here before.  It is really good.

It took me a while to pitch the tent in the fading light.

If it rained overnight, I didn’t notice. I was knackered.

Flickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/gp/twwilko_photos/q5gdb7

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1207346632

About Runnymede

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Runnymede

The second trip that I decided to take while I was in Chania was a hike through the Samaria Gorge.  The gorge is a major tourist attraction on Crete. It is the deepest and longest canyon in Europe.

Very Early Start

I was told that I would be picked up 6.00 a.m. The mini bus arrived spot on time.

What to Expect

We picked-up the other people of the trip very quickly and we headed of town.

As we drove along our guide, Thomas, told us what to expect on the hike.

The gorge is 16 km long, starting at an altitude of 1,250 m at the northern entrance, and ending at the shores of the Libyan Sea in Agia Roumeli. The walk through Samaria National Park is 13 km long,

More importantly, he told us the path is “very rough”.  It is not good for people with “problem knees”.

He described the different sections of the walk.  The first part is “very steep.  If you have a problem going down, you have to make a decision if you want to go on.  If you don’t think you can go on, turn back”.

The second part follows the river valley floor. “The path is very rocky”.

At one point you arrive at the Samaria village.  “This is a ‘check point’.  If you don’t leave there by 13.30 p.m. you are going too slow”.

The next part of the walk is through the narrow part of the gorge.  “This is a dangerous part as you may be hit by a falling rocks.   This part of the walk also includes a “lot of river crossings with stepping stones”.

The last part of the walk is another three kilometres to Agia Roumeli from the park exit, making the hike 16 km long.  Thomas said that we had to be at the exit ‘check point by 15.30 p.m.

His  final piece of advice was “to go as fast as you can while still being comfortable”.  The path could  be very busy later in the day.

Walking Poles

Thomas said that he could provide walking poles for a fee of EUR 6.  He said that “they are very useful on the steep sections and when you are doing the water crossings”.

I decided to hire the poles

Off we Go

We arrived at the entrance to the National Park at 8.40 a.m.  Thomas wasted no time in getting us moving.

He led us to the start of the path and reminded us of the check point times.  He said that he would start 30 minutes after us and would be around if we needed any assistance

The turns out to be as Described

The walk turned out to be pretty much as Thomas described.  The first part was very steep.  I was very glad that I had hired the poles.  They turned out to be very useful.  A lot of the other walkers on the path had poles. Most of those without  poles were clearly very experienced walkers and didn’t need them.  Others without poles probably wished that they had them.

The village of Samaria is about 11 kilometres through the walk,  just inside the main gorge. It was finally abandoned by the last remaining inhabitants in 1962 to make way for the park.

The most famous part of the gorge is the stretch known as the Gates (or, albeit incorrectly, as “Iron Gates”), where the sides of the gorge close in to a width of only four meters and soar up to a height of almost 300 meters (980 feet).  This part is very spectacular.  Check out the Flickr links.

Sometimes Alone

I am not sure how many people were on the path on this day, but there must have been hundreds.  Notwithstanding that, there were periods when I found myself walking alone will no one in sight.

Late Lunch

After leaving the park, I headed to the coast and had a late lunch in the Kir Kir restaurant.

Ferry Ride

Late in the afternoon, we caught a ferry from Agia Roumell along the coast to Sougia.

Our mini bus was waiting at the jetty.  It was an interesting drive over the maintains back to Chania.  The roads has a lots of sharp turns. I would have preferred being on a motorbike rather being in the bus.

Big Step Count

It was after eight when we got back to Chania.  I walked from the drop-off point to a restaurant on the beach nearby to apartment.

When I looked at my Fitbit, I found that I had completed 30,000 steps for the day.  This is PB since having the device.

 

Flickr Link (Videos)

https://flic.kr/s/aHskA9m7FE

Flickr Link (Photos)

https://flic.kr/s/aHskANiExz

About Samaria Gorge

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samari%C3%A1_Gorge