I was a bit damp when I woke up in Cerfontaine.

I quickly packed up and headed into town. I found a place for a coffee and croissant.

Tourist Office Open

Albeit it was early on Sunday morning the tourist office was open. I explained that I was heading east on a bike. The very nice lady provided me with a map and suggested that I take a route through the nearby forest before getting on to a rail trail.

I headed off with map in hand. I met a fellow cyclist who seemed to ask me where I was headed. I showed him of the map. He beckoned me to follow him. After about 3 klms he pointed down a small track. I am not sure I would have found it without his assistance.

Nice countryside

The route took me through some nice countryside.

Town with Vapour Train

After a couple of wrong turns I found the start of the rail trail. The town where it begins has a Steam Train Museum. These are popular the world over. There is something about a steam train that really interests people.

The rail trail was really good. Check out the video on Flickr.

South to Givet

I stayed on the rail trail a bit longer than necessary. My destination was Givet which is in France. Clearly the people who maintain the rail trail are interested in providing directions from Belgium into France.

It was a short ride on a main road south to Givet.

The woman in the Tourist Office a very amusing. She was very concerned that I would be upset by the weather, which was forecast to be “start rain, stop rain, start rain…..”. I assumed this to be intermittent showers.

Campsite

I found the Municipal Campsite. The cost was EUR 4.33. This is very strange price. I can only assume that the prices are indexed and the local Council is not into rounding.

Pilgrim Walker

My neighbour in the campsite was a Dutch boke who was doing the Camino de Santiago Pilgrim walk.

He seemed to be doing it a bit tough, having developed a couple of nasty blisters on his left foot.

Good Meal

I found a restaurant in town and had a meal.

Fickr Link

https://www.flickr.com/photos/twwilko_photos/sets/72157655802827780

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/838422502

I spent a bit longer in Mons than I had planned. It is not a bad place. One of my London host’s lived there for many years working for NATO.

Another reason for staying there for a couple of days was that I wasn’t feeling too well. Putting things into perspective, I have been remarkably lucky with my health over the past year. The last time I didn’t feel well was over a year ago when I picked up a bug in New York and wasn’t feeling too flash when I flew to Iceland.

Leaving Mons to Cerfantaine

I got a bit lost getting out of Mons heading for Cerfontaine. This very frustrating if you are a on a bike.

I finally found the right road and headed east. I stopped for a beer and a hamburger in the small place called Beaumont. There were lots of motorbikes on the road and in the town.

Young Belgium Bloke wants Manx Norton

As I had my meal I got into a conversation with a young Belgium bloke and his girlfriend who were on a BMW. He explained that had been a ‘classic road’ race nearby. This was a race for classic bikes on normal roads in the style of the Isle of Man TT. I told them that I had been on the Isle of Man his time last year. He was very impressed. She gave the impression that she couldn’t give a stuff.

I was very impressed by that his “great desire in life is to own a Manx Norton”. I am not sure his girlfriend thinks that is good idea.

Passing the lake

The owner of the bar gave me very complicated instructions on how to get to the campsite in Cerfontaine.

In the end, it was a simple case of take the road that crosses over a dam forming a lake and following the signs to the ‘Camping’.

Australia wins the Cricket

I pitched the tent and had shower in the dark. This was due to the fact that the light switch was a half a metre above my head – not a place I thought of looking. I only noticed it as I was leaving.

I went to the bar and got onto the internet. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Australia had won the 2^nd Ashes Test in four days.

My London host was pissed off as he had hoped to get a cheap ticket to Lord’s for the fifth day.

Rainy Night

It poured with rain overnight. My Northface tent is good, however it can’t cope with really heavy rain. I had a couple damp spots in the morning.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskgHwnux

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/838422479

This day took me from Lille to Mons.

I had problems getting out of Lille. Getting out of large cities and towns in Europe is often difficult on a bike. There are typically one way road systems that take you to a ring road. This often means you are initially travelling in the opposite direction of your ultimate destination. It is often very confusing and can add lots of kilometres to your trip.

On a Canal

After about 35 klms on bike path next to road I arrived Tournai. I found the Tourist Office and asked for a Velo (bicycle) map.

The map showed a bike path to Mons along the Grande Canal. I headed off.

All went well for until I approached Mons. The canal spit into smaller canals that went off into industrial areas. I clearly took the wrong one and got completely lost.

I can across a fellow cyclist coming the other way. I asked for direction into Mons. He tried to explain the way and then said “it is very difficult because of some construction work”. He turned around and at told me to follow him. We went about 4 klms before he showed me the direct route into the city. I am not sure how far he went out of his way to do that, however, I was very pleased to get his assistance.

Great Hostel

I headed to the main city square (Grande Plaza) and asked for directions to the Hostel. I turned out to be just of the square. It is very good. The girl in the Reception told me that is was designed by the same bloke that oversaw the stabilisation of the Tower of Pisa.

Mons is a bit popular this very as it is the ‘European Capital of Culture. There are lots of events on.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskg5YAro

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/834883802

I didn’t checkout of the hotel until mid-day. The weather was great and I decided to have a long lunch in a café just off the main square. I entertained myself with some reading and an occasional dip into what was happening with cricket in Cardiff.

Predictions on the Ashes

The cricket was only entertaining if you were an England supporter. As my SW18 host will confirm, I had predicted before the start of the series that Australia was not a strong a side as most English supports feared. In particular, if Harris wasn’t fit and Smith didn’t adjust to the conditions, Australia could be in real trouble. As it turned out, Harris has been forced to retire with a dicky knee and Smith struggled.

Short Ride

I had decided to take a short ride east of Arrras to a campsite recommended by the tourist information. As always getting out of town was a bit tricky. I finally found the correct ‘D’ road through the one way maze.

The campsite was very good. The manager offered me a local ‘blonde bier’. I was very good.

Nearly all the number plates in the place were NL. The Dutch have started their migration south.

North to Lille

In the morning I had a quick check of the map and decided on vague route to the east of Arras. I selected a Military Museum on the Garmin that appeared to be on the route.

Evidence of the Tour de France

As rode along, I appeared to be following the route of the Tour de France which travelled to Roubaix a couple of days before. There were lots of paint and chalk markings on the road. There were also lots of painted bicycles and a bicycle made of hay.

Battle Field

I came to a point where the Garmin told me that I had arrived at the Military Museum. The place was closed and it looks as though it will never open again.

Not far up the road I came across the Canadian Memorial for the battle of Vimy. Like Australia, the Canadians incurred huge losses in the Great War. The centre is very interesting and includes preserved trenches.

Further on I came across the Vimy Memorial, huge white stone sculpture. Along its side are inscribed the names of the 11,168 Canadian soldiers whose remains could not be found.

Refreshing Bier

I stopped in a small town called Carvin. The little bar where I stopped was owned by a bloke who was a bit of motor sports fanatic. There were some interest posters on the wall, including a poster of the mighty Vincent. The bier was nice and cold.

Into Lille

The last 20 klms into Lille was very straight and flat. It is a busy road, but at least there was a bike path.

My hostel was in the old part of the city. This involved riding on cobble stones. It is not easy. I don’t know how the road cyclists cope with these stones on the Paris to Roubaix race.

Staying In Lille

I ended staying in Lille a bit longer than expected. The weather was not too good and I expected that there would be something to see on the 14^th of July. Surprisingly there wasn’t much on.

 Link to Vimy Ridge Memorial

http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/overseas/first-world-war/france/vimy

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfueUPz

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/830268483

It was a glorious day when I finally left Filliervres and headed east towards Frevent. I passed a number of little towns that all seemed to be closed. Even in Frevent, which is a reasonably large place, most of the shops were closed. The French retailing hours a mystery to me.

Windmills

I passed a number of windmills. Each time I see a windmill I can’t help thinking of Tony Abbott and Joe Hockey and their ludicrous dislike of this very good technology.

This part of France is not spectacular, however the countryside is pleasant enough. As I rode along I listened to podcast on the First Ashes Test being played in Cardiff. There no doubt about the ability of the BBC to broadcast sport.

Into Arras

It was late in the afternoon when I arrived in Arras. Getting into the centre of the city was like solving a maze. The one way streets system seemed to be designed to prevent anyone getting into the centre.

I finally found the central square. It is quite impressive.

Arras was basically destroyed in both world wars and had to be rebuilt on both occasions. Fortunately, the rebuilding involved returning the city square and the surrounding area to their original state.

I made me think would should happen if the centre of Civic in Canberra was ever destroyed. I certainly would not advocate the rebuilding on Garema Place in its original state.

The Benefits of City Square

There is no doubt that a good centre square, like the one in Arras (and many other European towns and cities), can be a major attraction. It is disappointing that the planners of Australian cities and towns, including Canberra’s, did not look to Europe for inspiration.

Staying a Hotel

I decided to stay in the city. I checked in the Ibis Hotel, a cheap and cheerful place a block from the square.

After a shower, I went for a walk. I was met by a very large dog. Check out the flickr photo.

In a street off the square I found a busy little restaurant for a meal. It was only after I had ordered that I realised that there was only one waiter. This bloke was coping. He must be the most efficient waiter in the whole of France.

After the meal I had couple of beers in a bar on the square. It was a bit of the happening place.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfVSscD

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/828100517

Still windy

When I awoke in the morning, I found that wind was still very strong. As I was packing up, a small van stopped nearby and people from the surrounding tents walked towards it. It turned out to a bloke running a mobile patisserie business. He was doing a roaring trade.

As usual, if was a bit tricky finding my way out of the town. One way streets and the Garmin often lead you in the wrong direction.

I stooped at small a supermarket to buy some fruit. A young English couple with King Charles Cocker Spaniels asked me where I was riding. They seemed amazed that an Australian would ride from Canterbury to Rome. I am not sure if it was the nationality that was the issue or the distance.

The Benefits of Own Two Dogs

We also had a chat about the benefits of having two dogs, rather than just one. They are convinced that dogs with a mate (in this case brother and sister) are happier than just one. I tend to agree based in my experience with two Schnauzers and my Canberra hosts’ experience with their Border Collies.

Commonwealth war Cemetery

As I heading into Etaples, I passed to Commonwealth War Cemetery. Over 10 thousand buried allied soldiers lie in this place. It is a stark reminder of the horrendous losses that were incurred in the Great War.

Lunch

Leaving Etaples, I headed east. Now the wind was behind me. This was such a relief. It is hard enough carrying 35 kilos plus of luggage without having to hack into a 30kph wind was well.

I stopped for lunch in restaurant which was right of the road. Many of the restaurants in country France look really dodgy from the outside. When you walk in side, they are really nice.

The clientele in this place were a mixture of the old ladies (that I assume to be widows) middle aged blokes that appeared talking business and travellers. They all seem to have plenty of time to eat and drink.

Losing the trail

I was following the cycle route to Arras using the map I was given by the Tourist Information Centre in Calais and the Garmin.

Somehow (blame the Garmin), I lost the trail. I resorted to following the road signs to the next town shown the route. This took me on a major highway. This was not a pleasant experience. Fortunately, after about 10 klms I was off the highway and back on a D road which part of the cycle route.

Smokers in a Bar

It was getting in to the early evening when I arrived in Filleres. I came a across a camping site next to the road. It looked Ok.

After setting up the tent and having a shower, I went into a small bar next to the site. There were small some number of people in there, they were all smoking. It was like going back to the 1970’s.

Night’s Sleep

I was good to be able get a night’s sleep without the tent flapping about in a gale.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfeaN6o

 

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/827284903

War Cemetery Link

http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/56500/ETAPLES%20MILITARY%20CEMETERY

Heading South

My original plan was to have ridden from Calais to Boulogne on my first day in France. I decide that I was still going to ride to Boulogne and from there head west to Aaras. My host in Tunbridge Well recommend it as a place to visit.

My first task was to find something to eat. I had been told by the manager of the campsite that next town was 3 klms away. When I arrived I found a restaurant and asked what they had for breakfast. I was told that all they had was coffee. I was incredulous – “what not even a croissant?” “No   I am sorry there is nowhere here to buy food and this time”, came the reply.

Wind

As I headed off, the wind started to pick up. It was really strong and blowing directly into my face. It made the riding very difficult and slow.

It was close to midday when I found a place to get some food. It was a rather up market restaurant. I ordered an apple tart and a coffee. When I paid by credit card the waitress walked out of the restaurant and almost on to road. She explained that it was that place where she could get an internet signal.

Lunch

About an hour later I decided I need lunch. I came across a restaurant in a small town called Wimereux. I ordered sole. It was very well presented and very tasty. It is so good to be eating French food again.

More Wind

The wind really slowed me down as I headed on to Boulogne.

I had brief stop in the centre of the city near the docks. It seemed like a reasonable place, if somewhat shabby.

Camping Site

The wind had really go to me as I continued to head south. I decided to stop at the first camp site that I found.

The place I found was close to the beach in Equihen – Plage and looked impressive from the outside. I have become to expect that most large French campsite have all the facilities you need including a café and more than likely, a licenced restaurant. This place was missing these two.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskfPWD3G

Garmin Link

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/827284835

Canterbury to Rome Day 1 and 2

I spent a couple of days in Royal Tunbridge Wells before heading back to Canterbury.

I stayed at Neal’s Farm again. This is a great place to camp. It is a working farm only about 3 klms from the centre of the city with a licence for camping over the summer months.

South to Deal

The route down to south coast took me through Sandwich. I decided to have lunch there – a Salmon sandwich.

I then continued on to Deal. I had booked into the Kingsdown International Camping Centre which is about 4 klms from the town. It turned out to be a great place, with spectacular views over the English Channel. I decided to stay a few days. There were ongoing issues with immigrants causing the port in Calais to be periodically closed and I needed sort out some ‘administrative, stuff. This looked like a good place to do it.

Good Library

Next day, I walked into Deal along the sea front. The area is a very popular place to retire. I felt really young. It also must have one of the highest rates of dog ownership on the planet.

Deal has a really good public library.

Three Pubs

Back in Kingsdown, I decided to check out the pubs. The Zetland Arms, which is on the beach was recommended, the manager to the campsite, as the place to eat. He was right, it is very good.

I also checked out the Rising Sun (owned by the same people as the Zetland) and the Kings Heads. The latter is a traditional ‘public house’, frequented by people from the village.

To Dover

On Monday, it was time to leave for France. I headed to Dover along the coast. I have been to Dover a number of times, put not from this direction. The best place to view the ‘white cliffs’ is from on the eastern side of the town.

On the Ferry

The Dover docks are undergoing a redevelopment. There are temporary barriers all over the place. Whoever is responsible, clearly does not have the cyclists in mind. The cycle path was blocked at several points and I was forced to take the lane used by cars and trucks. This was not fun.

Calais and South

I dropped into the Tourist Centre in Calais. They provided me with a couple of maps, including one detailing the ‘velo’ (cycling) routes in the area. A good old paper map has its advantages over a google map. It is certainly better than using the Garmin.

Early Stop

I headed south towards Boulogne. I noticed a sign to campsite. The place looked good and I decided to stop.

I will head to Escalles on the coast and on to Boulogne.

Flickr Links

https://flic.kr/s/aHskf435hY

Garmin Links

To Dover

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/825418602

From Calais

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/825418643