SYD2BNE Days 13,14,15 and 16

I stayed in the Yamba camping ground,  located on the river very close to the town centre.  I had great meal in the Italian restaurant on the very steep street that leads up to the Pacific Hotel.

Albeit it was still almost two weeks till Xmas that place was really starting to fill up.

Time in Yamba

My plan for heading north was to ride up the beach from Iluka.  This meant waiting for the low tide.  Ideally I would have taken the 1.00 p.m. ferry across the Iluka.  As chance  would have it, this particular ferry does not run on Wednesdays.  I had to take the later ferry at 3.15 p.m.

I used the time to ride down to Angourie about 10 klms south of Yamba.  This is well known as surfing mecca.  The bloke that started the Billabong surf wear company built a ‘folly’ in Angourie.  I remember seeing it during construction some years ago.  It has a very large and expensive copper roof.  The house cannot be seen from the road anymore, as a result of the trees that have been planted.

Ferry to Iluka

The distance between Yamba and Iluka as not far as the crow (or seagull) flies.  The ferry, however zig zags all over the place, dogging sand banks as it crosses the Clarence River.

I got into a long conversation with the deckhand.  She told me about the options for riding north.  These included the beach (my original plan) and the choice of two fire trails.  My new found friend rang a mate who  worked with the SES for advice.   He told that the beach option be Ok, however the Park Rangers that put some boulders on the track leading to the northern end of the 10 mile beach.  These were designed to stop 4WDs getting on to the beach.  The advice was that I “should easily be able to walk around the boulders”.

Once the ferry docked, I headed through Iluka and toward the beach.

Up 10 Mile Beach

The tide was well and truly out and the sand was nice and hard.  I made good progress for the first 40 minutes of so.

I then came across section where there appeared to be underground (or under-sand) creeks heading to the sea.  The going was particularly soft and my heavily laden bike sunk into the sand.  I had to get off and push the bike on a few occasions.

When I got the end of the beach, I met  the abovementioned boulders.  I couldn’t “easily walk around” them at all.  Check out the Flickr pics.  I had to unload the bike and carry the panniers over the boulders and then do the same with bike. This was not an easy task for an old bloke.

Asking a German for directions

When I finally got off the beach, I was confronted with two tracks vaguely heading north.  A 4WD turned up on the left one as I was trying to work out which to take.  I asked the driver if “the track he has come down went to Evan Heads “.  He appeared to not understand what I had said.  I ask him “where have you come from?”  He responded: “from Germany”.   This was not what I expected.

Garmin Leads me into an ex RAAF Bombing Range

I took the track the 4WD had come down.  I assumed it did not lead directly to Germany.  The Garmin was in control.

After over about an hour and half the Garmin told me to turn right.  After about 3 klms, I came across a locked gate and Department of Defence signs telling me to ‘Keep Out’.   I had been led to a  RAAF practise bombing range.  Well done Mr Garmin, yet again.

I headed back from whence I had come and then made my way on to the highway.  It was late when I finally made into Woodburn.  I checked into the Rod ‘n’ Reel Hotel/Motel.  The cost of a room was AUD 35.  You don’t get much cheaper than that.  I think I paid AUD 20 too much.

Ride to Byron Bay

The only option for getting from Woodburn north is Pacific Highway.   Not much fun.

As I rode into Ballina, I was greeted by the ‘Big Prawn’.  Australia is littered by big things – The Big Banana (see the Coffs Harbour pics) and the Big Merino Sheep (Goulburn) etc.   There is a ‘Big Potato’ in Robertson in the NSW Southern Tablelands.  Some people think it looks more like a ‘Big Turd’.  Ballina’s Pawn is right up there in the kitsch stakes.

While I was in Ballina, I took that opportunity to stop off at the importer of Vaude sport equipment.  That is the brand of my tent.  I have managed to break a number of sections of the frame over the years.  I must be the only person that uses the Vaude Hogan Ultra-Light Tent as their principal place of residence.  Little wonder it is in the need of constant renovation. The importers in Australia and the UK have both very good in providing replacement frame sections.

Staying at the Cape Byron YHA

I head north again into Byron Bay.  I checked into the Cape Byron YHA and headed to the Beach Hotel for a beer.  Some reading this post know about a particular barmaid at the’ Beach’.  Sadly she no longer works there.  Why she worked there as long as she did is complete mystery.

I do note however, that I had a brief chat with a Swedish girl in the hostel that would make a great replacement of the ‘best in bar’ barmaid.

I had a great fish meal in a restaurant in the lane behind the hotel.

In the morning, I had had a long chat with owner of the hostel.  He is looking forward to a big upswing in business  as a result of the fall in the value of the AUD.

Ride o Murwillumbah

I headed north towards the Queensland border.  The route took me up the highway for a bit, then into Mullumbimby.  I stopped at the local bike shop to pump up my tyres .  I had the inevitable chat with the  cycle shop owner about Rohloff gears, Brook seats and Cannondale frames.

He suggested that I take the scenic route to Murwillumbah  vai Uki.  This turned out to be a rather tough ride with a lot of steep ‘up’ and the same amount of steep ‘down’ on a rough dirt road.  I had one particularly scary moment on a sharp turn.  Anyway I managed to stay upright made it into Uki.

I had a quick beer at the Uki café and chat with owners. This is an interesting place to open a café/bar.

Only Sober Person on Murwillumbah

I arrived in Murwillumbah quite late.  I checked into the River View Hotel -another classic ‘river town’ pub.  The place was packed with Xmas revelers, being the last Friday before the big day.

I walk over the bridge into town to find a place to eat.  I must have been the only sober person in town.  I found good Thai restaurant for a nice curry.

Ride to the Gold Coast

In the morning I had breakfast in a buzzy café in town.  Lots of cyclists and motor bikes rode past the café.

I headed out of town in the dirction of the coast.  This turned out to be a very picturesque ride.  I can see why it is popular with cyclists and bikers.

Once I hit Tweed Heads, I headed north up the Gold Coast.

Some the route took me along the beaches.  In other parts, I was inland and hard to climb some surprisingly steep hills.

My plans was to ride towards Surfers Paradise and then head inland to Robina to catch the train to Brisbane.   The Garmin seemed a bit confused.  When I asked a couple if I was “on the right road to Robina”, the response was “ yes, but it is a long way”.   It was said in a way that suggested that it would not be possible to ride that far.  Surely I did not look as though I was expecting a 30 minute ride and could not go any further.

As I headed west, I crossed the tram line that is being constructed from Surfers Paradise south down the coast.  This will be a great piece of infrastructure.

Train to Brisbane

I finally got to Robina and caught the train into Roma Street Station.

Finished.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjPkbS49

SYD2BNE Days 9,10,11and 12

It was as hot as hades when I left Urunga for Coffs Harbour.   Again, I had to travel on the Pacific Highway for a while.

Ride into Coffs Harbour

Fortunately there is however, the option to take the Old Pacific Highway.  Better still, there is ‘cycle path’ as you get closer to Coffs.

As I rode along the path I heard a ‘ring’ of a bike bell – a fellow cyclist – not too many of those on this trip.  The cyclist turned out to the be a bloke from Bellingen .  He told me that there were not many cyclists in the area – “it is still very much bogan territory”.

As we rode into town he told me that he wanted to ride from Tibet to Nepal, however this is difficult at the moment given the restrictions the Chinese Government is placing on movements into Tibet.  This an interesting ride to add to the ‘bucket list’.

Shocker of a Ride Out of Coffs

Both the Garmin and Google seemed to offer good options for the ride north out of Coffs.  They did not know about the road works.  There is freeway being built to Woolgoolga and beyond.  I was able to take of the ‘Old Coast Rd’ for a while.  The Garmin then  led me into a new residential development.

I stopped and asked a bloke mowing his lawn, “how do I get to Woolgoolga, my GPS is confused”.  His response was “we are all f**cking confused by this road work”.  My only option was to follow the highway through the road works.  This was particularly problematic given there was often no verge and the trucks were very close.

Woolgoolga

I decided to stay in Woolgoolga for a day.  I won’t do that again.

One good thing was the cricket.  Yet again Australia got out of out of gaol after being 5 for not many.

I dropped into the RSL for a beer.  I must have been the youngest person there by at least 20 years.  I also think I was that lightest by about 20 kilos.

Another good thing in Woolgoolga was the meal at the Rustic Table restaurant.  They should open up in a nicer town.

As was having breakfast, I got a call from the camping ground asking if I could pack up early as the people taking over my site had arrived.   I headed back to the ground and started to pack up.  Two groups, from what appeared to be the same family, were taking over my site and the one next to it.  As I packed up, the group on the adjacent site were erecting the annex to their caravan.  The bloke who appeared to be the father of the group moving on to my site looked on chaining smoking cigarettes.

After a short time he started to make smart comments about the speed I was packing up.  When I finished he commented that he “wished that I could ride faster than I can pack-up and that I would be good if truck ran me over”.  Nice bogan.

Grafton

I had booked into the Crown Hotel in Grafton.  The receptionist told me that I would have to be there before 3.30 p.m. “as they would be closing early  given it was Sunday”.

My original plan was to take a back road into Grafton.  However as I left Woolgoolga a massive black cloud appear to the west.  That is where the back road would have taken me.  I decide to save time and hopefully miss the storm, by staying on the highway.

I made good time and checked into the Crown Hotel in good time. The threatening storm came and went into less than 15 minutes.  Apparently this is not unusual in this part of the world.

The Crown Hotel is a classic ‘River Town’ Hotel.  My room was on the balcony.  I has a great view over the Clarence – which rightly known as ‘The Big River – as it is more like a lake at this point on its way to the sea.

Ride to Maclean

I took the river road towards a town called Lawrence downstream from Grafton. As I approached the town it started to rain.

It stopped at a Tavern next to the river.  All the patrons were watching the cricket.  More  than half of the patrons were road workers who I assumed were working on partially closed bridge about 500 metres from the Tavern.

I ordered lunch and sat down to watch the cricket.  Shane Watson raced to his 100 and was bizarrely  run out.  The rain had cleared.  However, I overheard the road workers agree that it was still too wet to work – at least until Australia had declared.  George Bailey came into bat and smashed 28 of Anderson.

Australia declared.  The road workers decided that it was still too wet to work. Harris bowled Cook for golden duck.  The road workers decided it was too wet to go back to work today.

Maclean

I rode the short distance to Maclean in bright sunshine.  My Balmain host has recently been in Maclean.  I decided to stay the night and checked into the Maclean Hotel.

I agree with my Balmain host’s view of Maclean.

 Yamba

It is only about 20 klms from Maclean to Yamba.  Yamba was a well-kept  secret.  It is yet to be put   in the same category as Byron Bay or Noosa, but the secret is out – it is great place.

I pitch my tent and headed up to the Pacific Hotel to watch the final stages on the 3^rd Test.  Australia regained the Ashes 3-0. Excellent.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjP9uNpM

SYD2BNE Days 7 and 8

Retirees Everywhere

I had breakfast at a café at the front of the Port Macquarie Hotel.  It looks over the waterfront.   The passing parade was, almost exclusively, middle to late aged walkers and joggers.  This place appears to be retirement heaven.

The route north took me past a ‘canal development’.  There appears to be no slowing of these developments along the eastern seaboard.

I crossed the water on the Settlement Point ferry.  It is only a short, but long enough for a bloke on a 250cc Honda to give me his views of the state of the American Motor Vehicle industry.  Is suspect this had something to do with the, soon to be announced, closure of the Holden factories in Australia.

Dirt road to Crescent Head

The route took me north to Crescent Head.  It is dirt road, however, unlike the Diamond Had road, this one is graded regularly.   I must say the countryside was a bit bleak.

I arrived in Crescent Head in time for lunch.  I stopped by the beach where I got into a long conversation with woman from the Gold Coast.  She was very intrigued by the fact that I travelled alone.

North through Gladstone

The road north from Crescent Head was great.  There was also a marked change on the countryside.  It actually became quite picturesque.   I passed through Gladstone, which is one of the old ‘river towns’, which has declined due to the move to road transport.

I arrived in South West Rocks in the late afternoon and check into the camping ground.  I rang the Riverside Tavern for their courtesy bus.

Spectacular Sunset

As I waited for my meal, I notice a very spectacular sunset and took a photo.  I was the only person that seemed interested.  The locals have “seen heaps of them before”.

The Tavern was very busy and staffed by very young waitresses.  When I ordered an ‘espresso coffee’, I was given a cappuccino.  I asked for a “short black espresso” again and was told, “we don’t do those”.   When I suggested they probably do, given it was simply a cappuccino without milk, the waitress said she would have to speak to her manager.   Finally I got my coffee.

Mainly of the Highway

The route north from South West Rocks was mainly on the Pacific Highway.  This is not much fun with huge semi-trailer trucks passing very close.

I stopped in classic ‘milk bar’ in Macksville.   Check out the Flickr photos.

I took a detour through Nambucca Heads.  I know people that have left Nambucca Heads.  It is easy to see why.

After another spell on the highway I arrived in Uranga and checked in to the Ocean View Hotel.  This classic country pub.  The room was on the balcony and very comfortable.  The meal was basic but very good.

There is a great board walk along the Bellinger River to the beach.

Flickr Links

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNQr7mW

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNUEcBq

Garmin Links

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/414559750

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/414872945

SYD2BNE Days 4, 5 and 6

I stayed in Bluey’s Beach.  This is very popular place in the holiday period. Boomerang and Elizabeth Beach are the places to go.

Forster

As I headed north, I passed through Forster.  I have now been there twice,  I am not  sure if there will be a third visit.

Taree

There are not many options for travelling north beyond Forster.  I ended up having to take the Pacific Highway towards Taree.

Taree is one the ‘river towns’ on the NSW Coast.  They are situated in the many rivers heading to the sea.  Before the rail and road links were established, the transport to these towns was by sea and a short trip up the rivers.

The rail line made the sea links uncompetitive; however, because the line passed through the towns, they prospered.  The towns on the coast, e.g. Laurieton were restricted  to being fishing villages.  With the rise of the motor vehicle and increased prosperity overall, the coastal towns became popular as holiday destinations.  In the 90’s, these places also became popular ‘sea-change’ destinations for retirees.

I checked in to the Exchange Hotel in Taree.  This is an example of the classic NSW country pub.  These are not popular places to stay anymore.  This makes them relatively cheap – AUD 40.

I recalled that last time that I was in Taree, was to inform employees of the then Rail Services Australia (RSA), that the plant that made timber sleepers would be closed.  This was at the time that the maintenance of the rail line was going to be subject to completive tender.  I left RSA not long after the visit.  Under pressure for the unions, the NSW Government stopped the competitive tender process.

Next morning , I road to Lansdowne.   The route took me along the rail line that links Sydney with Brisbane. All of the sleepers are made of concrete.  I assume that timber sleeper plant was closed.

Not Activity at the Bowling Club

I stopped in Lansdowne for water.  The only place open was the bowling club.  I asked for water.  The barman appeared pleased to have a customer, albeit one that did not pay anything.

Garmin Gets  Confused

The route from Lansdowne took me into a State Forest.  The Garmin thought I was on the Rocky Creek Road.  Apparent there is no such road.  When I reach an intersection of four forest tracks, it decided that there were no roads or tracks in the vicinity.  It was confused and so was I.  I resorted to the trusty compass and headed east towards the sea.

  Noise of the Bush

There is one thing I had forgotten about the Australian bush, especially in summer – the noise of the cicadas – almost deafening.

Good Advice from a Farmer’s Wife

When I emerged from the State Forest, I had almost run out of water.  I could see the Pacific Highway in the distance. Saw a women dragging wheelie bin across the road and asked if she could give me some water.  She asked me where I was headed and gave her a bottle, assuming there would be plenty of places to refill it and my other bottle down the track.

She asked for the other bottle saying: “if you don’t drink it, you can tip it out – you can’t drink water from an empty bottle”.  As it turned out, I need both bottles.

Shit Track

I crossed the highway and head north of the track past Diamond head to Laurieton.  This is the most corrugated track I have ever encountered.

After about 20 klms of hell,  I finally made it the Laurieton.

Pay Whenever

When I arrived at the camping ground, the Manager said “pitch your tent wherever, and pay wherever you decide to leave”.  This is something you would hear in the UK and Europe where the provision of ID and payment is mandatory.

Port Macquarie

In the morning, I headed north to Port Macquarie. I didn’t take the best route.

I decided to stay in the Port Macquarie Hotel.  This turned out to be a bit of revelation.  I am going to have to check out the history of the place.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNMJymJ

Waking up Early

I woke up early.  Put this down to sleeping in a tent again.  I assume waking up early it is something  to do with my circadian clock.  I headed across to One Mile Beach and look a picture of the sunrise.  It seems that I have developed an interested in sunrises and sunsets.

It took me a while to pack-up.  This has not been my strong suit – but I am slower being out of practice.  After a  short ride  I was in Nelson Bay.  I found a café by the Marina and ordered breakfast.

Order at the Bar

When I finished my muesli , I asked a passing waitress, one of 4 in the place (the same number as patrons) for another coffee.  I was told to “order at the bar”.  I followed her  5 metres to the bar, where I she asked me what I wanted.  I told her “the same thing I want 30 seconds ago at the table”.  She asked me “what was that?  I suspect that if someone was suffering a heart attack in the café you would have ask for the ambulance  at the bar,  rather than calling out from beside the dying person.

Old Ferries

I caught the ferry across to Tea Garden.  Two heritage ferries ply this route.  They are classics.  Earlier in the year to took the larger one which has a sign reminding patrons “not to spit”. Good advice.  This time I took the smaller ferry.  It is over 70 years old and going strong.   The trip across Port Stephens takes about an hour.  If you are in luck, you get to see dolphins on the way.  I was not in luck this time.

You Call this a Track?????

From Tea Garden, I head north along the Mungo Brush Road.  I had decided to take the Miners Track that runs along the coast side of Myall Lake.  This track was used when there sand mining took place on the beaches.  Since the closure of the mining, the track has been closed to all vehicles.  I had tried to take the track in January earlier in the year, but it was closed due to extremely fire danger.

Within metres of heading on the track, I became apparent this was not going to easy.  In parts the track is virtually completely overgrown.  I assume bushwalkers use the track, but there was no evidence of any mountain bikes (e.g. tyre tracks) this part of the track.  I had called a mate before leaving Nelson Bay and told time that I expected to get to Seal Rocks Rd in about 5 hours.   It looked as though that could more like 10 hours.

Finally, after some very slow going, the vegetation cleared and I was on track, albeit vey rocky.  The track then became a dirt road.

Give me Water

I drank the last drop of my  water  as I turned onto the Seal Rock Rd.  I stopped at the first hour I came to, and asked  for some water.  I drank a whole 1.5 litre bottle and asked for more.

It was good to be back on a real road.  After a short stop for an ice cream and a check of the cricket score (the Poms are being flogged), I  headed to Bluey’s Beach.  I SMSed  my mate that “I made it”.  The response was, “I have called off the search party”.

A good meal in a trendy café .  Another night in the tent at the Oasis Palms camping ground.  The place has palm trees.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNE7QdY

Garmin Link

 http://connect.garmin.com/activity/413272162#.UqO4k3FGnMs.facebook

SYD2BNE Day 2

I  am not in a rush.  In the morning I did my domestics – that is washing clothes.  That is simple for me given I have so few.  The ‘girl’ in the Laundromat was chatty.  She was clearly looking forward to heading to the beach later in the day.  Apparently the “ swell looked good”.

I rode past the City Beach and Nobby’s – she was probably right.  What would I know (?), I am from Canberra.

Good Lunch and Chat

I headed to the foreshore to catch the ferry across to Stockton.  The foreshore is a bit buzzy.  I decided to have lunch at one of the cafes.  There was large group of people clearly having a work Xmas Lunch.  Interesting and not very  interesting things are said at such events.  This was not the exception to that rule.  A fat bald bloke who was in the Army ‘needs to take a good look at himself’.

As I was about to leave, bloke took a close look at my bike.  He came over to my table and started to chat. He was a fellow cyclist.  It was an interesting chat – anyone who owns a bike with a Thorne Frame, Rolhoff gears, and bought the same for his second wife, deserves and few minutes of my time.  He is looking to start a cycling business.  I hope it goes well for him.

Big Ship

I finally caught the ferry to Stockton.  As to be expected the ferry had to dodge a large coal ship. That industry is driving the city and region.

I finally got on the bike for some real riding.  The road to Nelson Bay is not the best for cycling – but there are no other options.

Expensive Camping

I checked into the One Mile Beach Camping Ground – AUD 46 per night.  That is a lot more that my tent is worth.

The place is starting to fill up with the summer tourists – families with young kids.  A quintessential Australian summer holiday – surf, fishing, beers over the BBQ and arguments with the missus where the tent should be pitched.  A line from the bloke who’s family was setting up next to me was a classic – “If you think that the tent should be in a different place, you set it up – and you explain to the owners of the place why Spot 47  was not acceptable this year despite the fact we have been in the place for last 5 years”.   He walked off in the direction of a group standing around the BBQ.

Quiet Cafe

I walked to a café next to the camping ground.  As I walk in, two people left.  No one else came into the place during my meal.

I chatted with the  Café owner.  He told me that he was  from Cyprus and had been in Australia for 27 years.  He still had a very strong accent – proving again that your accent  is fixed once you are 12. He told me that it had been a really quiet winter and was hope that the summer will be better.  It seem that the high AUD has impacted the domestic travel industry really badly.  I am not sure the recent fall in the currency will make to much difference.

Back in the Tent

Crawling into the tent felt like coming home.

Flickr Link

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjNB25vK

Garmin Link

http://connect.garmin.com/page/activity/activity.faces?activityId=412668498&actionMethod=page%2Factivity%2Factivity.xhtml%3AuserSwitcher.switchSystem&cid=20762464