I spent at least one more in Delhi than I planned, not that I really plan. Anyway it was good to revisit the place.

I had asked that people at the Hotel for advice on getting to Agra. I had heard conflicting stories about using the train for catching a bus from fellow travellers. Some said that the train was terrible and very crowded and that because that station in Agra is la long way from the city, it is better to take the bus. The people at the hotel suggested the train.

As it turned out, there is a very good train from Delhi to Bhopal (famous for the Union Carbide industrial gas disaster in 1984) Express which stops in Agra. The Hotel booked me on the train. There was a bit of confusion regarding the ticket which was bought on-line. That was sorted and I set may alarm to wake up at 5.00 a.m.

The walk to the station along Main Bazar Road wasn’t as interesting as I expected. It was dark and fairly crowded as you would expect. Three French women were also heading for the same train. They said they would be pleased if I walked with them.

On the Train

The train was quite comfortable. My carriage was only half full. Given this is the start of a ‘festive season’, I had been led to believe that trains would be crowded. The service was very good with a bottle of water, tea and a hot ‘something’ and biscuits provided.

The track was very smooth and the train was quite fast.
The countryside was flat and all given over to agriculture. We passed through a number of towns/cities, stopping at a couple of bigger ones. We also passed by some villages that looked very poor, with very inadequate housing. Clearly a lot of people were effectively sleeping in the open with only a piece of cloth attached to some poles for shelter.

Good Advice from a Local

As we approached Agra, we were told that the train would only be stopping for 4 minutes. I made my way to the door. An Indian couple struck up a conversation. The bloke told that the only thing Agra was good for was that Taj. He suggested that one day was enough. If was planning of staying, one night was enough. He suggested a hotel in which to stay near the East Gate.

When we left the station a number of the taxis and Tuk-Tuk driver descended on me. The Indian bloke pick one out for me and negotiated a fare to the hotel. I was grateful for his intervention.
The Hotel tuned out to be the Taj Resort. So many Taj’s in this country. It is small but very comfortable.

Back in 1985

When I was on the Foreign Affairs trip I have mentioned before, we had three weekends in Delhi in 1985. This gave us the opportunity to travel out of the city.
On one of those weekends we travelled to Agra for the days. We took the High Commissioner’s car. Before you think we were doing a Bronwyn Bishop, it was all ‘above board’. We paid commercial hire rates for the car and we paid the driver is normal weekend rates.

The Drive

I can recall starting very early in the morning. Progress was slow on what seemed to be a very busy road. The car, a Holden Statesman, was fitted with a super load horn. The driver used it frequently as we picked our way through the traffic. This include cars, motorbikes, bicycles, rickshaws (motorised and human powered) trucks and a variety of carts being towed by motorbikes, animals (horses, donkeys and mules) and people. There were also lots of cows on the road.

Capital City Runs out of Water

I recall that we stopped in place called Fatehpur Sikri before we got to Agra. The place was that capital city of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585. The people had to leave because of a lack of water. I think I thought at the time that this may happen to places like Canberra and Perth. Maybe this is ‘enhanced’ memory in the context of climate change.

Seeing the Taj Mahal

We had a ‘private guide’ when we went to the Taj Mahal. All I can recall was that he seemingly wanted to show us ever “translucent stone” in the palace. Needless to say, there are many of these stones. I recall that it reached a point where we said that enough is enough.

Colleague hit in Ribs by a Cow

Another thing I recall about that visit was my colleague being hit in the ribs by a cow as she walked down a stress in the town. Her reaction was priceless.

Back to 2015

After checking into Hotel I walked towards the Taj Mahal. I had been told by people I had met in Delhi that the ticket office was up the hill from the Palace. There is cart service that takes you from the entrance to the Palace to and from the tickets office.
I still wanted to walk.

The street was remarkably quiet. There are police barriers very 300 metres or so and the only traffic is the ‘ticket carts (battery powered), tuk tuks and horse drawn carts (clearly for tourist use).

The road is being paved. There is clearly a big effort being put into leaning up the place.
After having a look around the area near the East Gate, I caught the ‘ticket cart’ up the hill got my ticket and returned to enter the palace.

There is the obligatory security check better you enter the palace. Security is huge industry in India.

I walked into palace grounds. I was approached by a number of guides offering their services. I recalled the 1985 experience and politely declined their offers.

A Great Sight

There is no doubt that the Taj Mahal is a great sight.

I took heaps of photos, a contrast to my 1985 visit. Notwithstanding the change in technology, I  think the 1985 photos are the best.

Relatively Good Internet

The internet at the hotel was reasonable. I was able to make a few Skype calls.

Very Flash Hotel

In the early evening I walked across the road and checked out the Oberoi Hotel.
I suspect it would meet the high standards one of my Brisbane cousins wife sets. She should check out the link below.

Flickr Links

Agra 1985
https://flic.kr/s/aHskmWKZQ9

Agra 2015
https://flic.kr/s/aHskiKbjT5

Seriously Luxurious Hotel
http://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-agra/