Manchester Bay to San Francisco

New Phototastic Collage

I was pleased to be leaving Manchester Beach.  As I continued along the coast, the fog slowly lifted and the temperature rose.

The road got narrower and the short sharp ascents and descents became more frequent.

Ocean Cove

It was late in the afternoon when I arrived in a small place called Ocean Cove.  There wasn’t much to it, but it had all that I need: a Bar and Grill, a small store and a camping ground.

The Bar and Grill had  great views across the cove to the ocean. The food was good and the craft beer, was excellent as always.  There were some binoculars on the bar, for the purpose of looking at passing whales.

In the morning, I returned to the Bar and Grill for breakfast.  Unfortunate this was very ordinary.

Climbing over Jenner Hill

Next day, I headed to Bodega Bay.  This involved climbing over Jenner Hill.  It was quite a climb. The road was also very close to the cliffs that drop directly into the ocean below.  Check out the Flickr photos and video.

The road was very busy, will the tail end of the Memorial Bay traffic heading south.

There were also lots of land slips. They had caused one lane to be closed with traffic lights stopping the movement of the vehicles in one direction at a time. I was able ride to the front of the line of cars and RVs at each land slip.

I noticed one particular vehicle, an old VW Combie. It would pass me and then come to a stop at a land slip.  I would pass it as I went to the front of the line. When lights changed, I would head off and was passed by the cars and RVs, including the VW.  At the next land slip, the above would be repeated.  It was the classic ‘tortoise and hare’ thing.

Stopping for Lunch

Near Jenner I stopped for lunch in the very flash restaurant that looked across the beach to the ocean.  The food was excellent, if somewhat expensive.  The bartender told me that this part of the coast was “a well-kept secret until recently.  It has been discovered by the IT crowd in the Bay Area”.

On to Bogeda Bay

I continued onto Bodega Bay.  The only accommodation on offer were motels and guest house.  I was lucky to find a vacancy in the Bodega Bay Inn. It was Ok, but turned out to the most expensive accommodation on my trip so far.

The Inn, however did offer a reasonably good ‘continental’ breakfast with muesli and fruit.  Such fare is not usually on offer in my experience of USA motels.

The One Takes a Turn

After Bodega Highway One heads East inland and towards Highway 101.  At Forde Valley, it heads back towards the coast.  Most of the traffic heads towards the 101.

I continued on ‘The One’. It was somewhat surreal to be travelling on the road with virtually no traffic.

I stopped in a tiny place call Tomales for lunch, a basic cheese and tomato sandwich.

At a place called Inverness, I noticed a lot of cars parked by the road.  The attraction turned out to be an oyster farm.  They were serving fresh Pacific Oysters and cold beer.

I sat bench eating oysters and drinking craft beer.  I got into conversation with a couple with a huge Afghan Hound. Check out his photo.

I headed onto Point Reynes where I stopped for a meal.

After yet another very good meal and a couple of good craft beers, I headed on to Olema where I checked into a RV and camping ground.

In the morning, I headed inland towards Fairfax on the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard which passes through the Samuel P Taylor State Park.

As I rode into Fairfax, the traffic became very heavy.  I heard someone called out “are you lost”? It turned out to be a fellow cyclist.  He rode over to me and asked, “where are you headed”? I told him that I was headed to San Francisco.  He said “you need to stay off this road and offered to show the way on bike route.

This turned out to be very good.  However, it was a good job that he led the way as the route was not very well signposted.  There were some parts on paths and other parts on back streets.  The bloke was on an electric bike.  He had converted it himself.  It had motors in both the front wheel and the crank.  It was seriously quick.

The bloke led me as far as Mill Valley, close to where bike path meets the 101.  There was one last steep climb before the path dropped down into Sausalito on San Francisco Bay.

Sausalito

I stopped for lunch in fish restaurant on the bay.  It was really good.

 Golden Gate Bridge

After lunch, I continued onto the Golden Gate bridge.

For some reason, the west side of the bridge is closed to cyclists after 3.00 p.m.  A guard of the bridge told me that I could cross to the other side and ride there.  Crossing to other side meant walking the bike down and up ramps next to a long flight of steps.  There was no way that the bike could fit on the ramp with the panniers onboard.  I decided to walk.

Half way across the bridge, I walked into a bank of fog.  It was somewhat surreal.  To the east the sky was clear and sunny.  To the west, the bridge was covered in thick fog.

Riding into Down Town San Francisco

Once over the bridge, I hopped on the bike and rode along the bay towards  Fisherman’s Wharf and the onto my hostel, in Mason Street, one block from Union Square.

Flickr Links

From Manchester Beach into San Francisco

https://flic.kr/s/aHskYrS9XW

Garmin Links

Manchester Beach

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1768265268

Jenner

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1768265324

Bogeda Bay

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1771070204

Point Reyes

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1771070240

San Francisco

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1792798469

Benbow to Manchester Beach

I left Benbow around noon.  The route took me directly south on the 101 and towards Leggett.  It was very hot and some of the hills were very steep.

The road followed a river which cut through pine forests.  A feature of the road was some spectacular bridges over the river.

Standish Hickey State Park

The guidebook that I was vaguely following recommended the Standish State Park as a place to stay.  The state Parks are typically very good, however, they are often a long way from towns and places where you can buy food.  This is a problem for me as I do not have space to carry food on the bike and I don’t have any cooking equipment.

This particular park was okay as it was opposite a shop which also sold cooked meals and cold beer.

I  checked into the camping ground and after I pitched my tent and headed across to the store for a meal.

While I was eating a meal, I got into conversation with an older couple from Oregon who were riding an Indian motorcycle similar to a Harley Davidson.  They said that they bought the Indian just because they “didn’t want to be the same as the Harley riders”.

Leggett Hill

Next morning, I headed into the small town of Leggett, where the 101 joins the Highway One, known locally as ‘The One’. This highway heads to the coast and follows it all the way south to San Francisco.

Leaving the town, the highway climbs steeply up the Leggett Hill. This one of the major climbs on the Pacific cycle route.  It is a long and steady climb.  Nearing the top, I saw a fellow cyclist coming the other way. We stopped for a chat.  The other cyclist turned out to be a French women.  She told me that she had ridden from San Francisco when she was struggling as she was “getting over an operation”.  This had meant that she was forced to walk up any steep hills.  On this day, she had “walked over 15 kilometers”.

The run down from the top of the hill to the coast was a great decent.  Check out the GoPro on Flickr.

As I got closer to the coast, the temperature dropped dramatically from over 30 degrees centigrade to less than 15 degrees.  The cause of this dramatic drop in temperature was a thick fog rolling in from the ocean.

Westport

I headed south along the coast until I came to a very small town called Westport, where I checked into an RV Park and camping ground.  It was a very pleasant camping ground close to a river.

The wasn’t much to Westport, apart from the park and small store which sold take-way food and beer.

Continuing along the Coast

Next morning, I continued along the coast south towards Ft Bragg.  This part of the coast, is also very spectacular, albeit the sky was dull due to the fog.

In Fort Bragg, I stopped briefly at a bike shop to pump up my tyres.  The owner of the bike shop told me that business was good.  This was pleasing, if somewhat surprising, to hear given that there didn’t seem to be many local cyclists on the road.

Fort Bragg

I had booked a motel online.  It turned out to be quite a long way from the centre of town.  Ft Bragg, like many towns that I encountered on the route, is strung out along the highway which passes through it.

After checking into the motel, I walked back into the ‘centre’ of the town to have a meal in the local brewery.  It was a reasonable meal and a beer was excellent.

Leaving Fort Bragg

After leaving Ft Bragg, the road narrows considerably, as it hugs the coast.  There are a long series of very steep climbs and descents, as the road leads down into the onto beaches, followed by sharp climbs to ridges above.

Manchester Beach

It was late in the afternoon, when I arrived in Manchester Beach.  The only place to stay was an RV camping ground.  This was also the first day of the Memorial Day weekend.  This meant that the camping ground and all other accommodation along the coast to San Francisco was close or full to capacity.

I was able to get a pitch for my small tent, however, I had to pay the full price, of USD 40 for it.

I am sure that Manchester Beach, can be a nice place, however this week it was very gloomy with a constant high-level fog, which also kept the temperature very low.  Notwithstanding, the gloomy weather, I decided to stay in Manchester Beach two nights.  This was primarily due to risk of not being able to find any accommodation further south.

As it turned out, I had number of interesting conversations with people staying in the park.  They seemed to be enjoying themselves despite the weather. As is one couple explained to me, Memorial Day “marks the beginning of the summer season and end of the winter and it had been a long and wet winter”.

Flickr Link

Benbow to Fort Bragg

https://flic.kr/s/aHskVKtesU

Garmin Links

Benbow

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1758819097

Leggett

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1758819137

Westport

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1758819160

Fort Bragg

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1762336138

 

Coos Bay to Benbow

Benbow

I stayed in a Motel 6 in Coos Bay.  They are simple, but very clean and relatively inexpensive despite the soft AUDvUSD,

Walk to Brewery

It was a short walk from the Motel to the local Brewery, which as it turned out, was that only place in town that was serving food on Sunday.

The beer was good and they served a reasonable salmon meal.

Bus to Brookings

I ended up deciding to take a bus from Coos Bay to Brookings.  This wasn’t a particularly good stretch of the route to ride. There were some parts of the coast that were spectacular, but this was interspersed with some very boring bits.

Brookings was Damp

After getting off the bus, I took a short ride to the Brooking Harbour where I checked into a RV Park.

These are interesting places. I came across them in my last trip to California three years ago.  Typically, they are a few kilometers out of the major towns, or in very small towns or villages. Most of the RVs are huge, sometimes as large as buses.  Often they tow cars.  This is needed as the owners have to drive relatively long distances to shops and other services. Sometimes they use motorcycles and even more rarely, they use bicycles.

I pitched my tent at the far end of the park.

Another person worried about Trump

I then headed to a nearby restaurant where I had a reasonable meal. At the bar I got into a conversation with a bloke who told me that he was a ‘trader’. He had been a ‘day trader’, but the “algorithms had killed that”.  He told me that he now trades over a longer horizon, weeks or months.

As is often the case, the conversation, drifted into politics and Trump.   He said that he had “gone short on the USA”.  This included the USD, stocks and property in the expectation that Trump will “implode and take the country with him.

As I walked back to the tent, it started to rain. It poured down all night.

In the morning, it was still pouring with rain.

I headed back the restaurant for breakfast.  This turned into lunch, as the rain continued to fall.

There was a brief period when the rain stopped. I took a short walk to a coffee shop.  It had decent coffee, a rare commodity over here.

I ended up having another meal in the restaurant, before an early night in the still very damp tent.

Riding to Crescent City

In the morning, I stopped briefly at the coffee shop, before heading off down Highway 101 towards Crescent City.

The road run parallel to the coast and near to the very large sand dunes that are a feature of this area.  There are lots of places where you can rent ‘All Terrain Vehicles’ ATV’s to ride on the dunes.  There are also a lot of SUV’s carrying ATV’s.  They  appear to be a land version of Jet Skis and appeal to the same type of person.

Crescent City

I rode into Crescent City and found it to be a like a lot of towns that I have encountered in my visits to the USA: it has no discernable centre.  This is a strange phenomenon. It seems to be the result of a number of factors.

These include: that fact that the original buildings were not very substantial and when the highways came along, the focus of the towns moved to the highway. When this occurred, the original centres of the towns were demolished and replaced with other building.

Unlike English and European towns and villages, there is no town square which forms that centre of the place.  In Australia, there is usually a park and the Post Office, major banks and hotels that form the centre of small towns.  In the USA, there are usually just a ribbon on buildings along the Main Street, will no actual ‘centre’.

I stopped at the Information Centre and asked for some advice about accommodation and food. They told me that there was an RV Park that allowed camping and there was a good Brewery that served “excellent food”.  Those were my only needs.  I decided to stay.

It was blowing a gale when I pitched my tent.  Check out the video of Flickr.

Brewery

The Brewery turned out to have very tasty beer and food.  The staff very friendly.

Over the Hill

Next morning, I struggled to find a place to have breakfast.  It seems that cafés in small town USA don’t do anything other than cooked breakfasts that involve eggs and bacon or pancakes. I had to settle on the latter.

With a load of carbs, I headed out of town and up the Crescent Hill.  It was quite a climb.

The descent down the other side of the hill brought me close to the ocean.  It is very spectacular.  Check out the videos.

Unfortunately,  the ride was spoilt by a ‘bogan’ in an oversized  SUV. Check out the Flickr video.

The next part of the ride was quite pleasant, passing some lakes and the start of the Redwood forests.

For brief stretch, the cycle route left the 101 and passed through some small village including Smith River. The road was flat and I had a tail wind.

Klamath

I arrived in a small town called Klamath in the late afternoon.  I went to the Information Centre and was told that there was RV Park that allowed tents just out of town.

The park turned out to be really good.

Klamath  is a ‘Tribal Town’.  This means that it is primarily populated by native Americans and they own much of the land.  They also have special rights to operate Casinos in towns such as these.

Bus to Fortuna

The owner of the RV suggested that I take a bus for the next bit of my journey South.

The bus left in the mid-afternoon.

It stopped in Eureka where I caught a local bus on to Fortuna.

Fortuna

I had booked into a motel using Booking.com.  It was a shocker, run by an Indian Basil Faulty.  I hope my review on the site does what I hope it does.

Into the Humboldt State Forest

I took a short local bus ride from Fortuna to Scotia.  This was all on the Freeway and no good for riding.

From Scotia, it was a short ride along the 101 before I turned off onto the Avenue of the Giants that takes you through the Humbolt State Forest.  This famous for its Redwood pines.

Check out the Flickr photos.

Meyers Flat

I stopped in a small village called Meyers Flat.

Surprisingly, it is really run down.  The only restaurant in the place has closed down.  There is a B&B that  is very expensive.  Apart from that, there is a Saloon and a ‘Market’, with limited supplies.

There is however, a RV park near the river about 200 metre from the village.

I checked in and pitched my tent.

I then walked up to the Market where I bought a hot dog and a sandwich.  I then headed to the Saloon.

It was like something out of the ‘wild west’.  The owner, in his 80’s was sitting in a lounge chair holding a revolver. The Barmaid, called Olive told me that she was from London and was living nearby with her boyfriend. A ‘local’ sitting at the bar told me that “this is weed country” and that “most of the people here grow the stuff or are here to smoke it because it’s cheap”.

RV Park was very secure.  The owners said that “this was necessary due to a lot of petty theft by the locals.

Leaving the State Park

It was a short ride along the Avenue of the Giants when I was back on the 101 and into Garberville.  I had been told by the owners of the RV Park in Meyers Plain that this was a “bad town” and I should head on to Benbow.

Dodgy Town

As I rode through Garberville, I couldn’t see any signs for Benbow.  I saw a couple of policemen and stopped. I said “I need some advice”.  One of them said “don’t hang around here” and laughed.  I said “am looking to go to Benbow” and he replied “good idea” .  He told me that all I had to do was stay on the 101 and head over the hill.

I asked him “what was wrong with the town” ?.  He replied, “homeless people on drugs. They stay here because they re close to the shops”.

Benbow

I headed over the hill to Benbow.  It turned out to be a good place.  It has a RV Park with a golf course and the Benbow Inn.

I checked into the RV Park and pitched my tent before heading over to the Inn for a meal.

The Inn is a mock Tudor Hotel that was built in the 1920’s.  I was a popular with the early Hollywood stars.  It would appear to have had mixed success since then, but is being extended.  I guess is looking to a new lease of life.

In the morning I awoke to the sound of two blokes speaking Dutch.

They turned out to be fellow cyclists.  They are riding from San Francisco to Calgary.  I told them that they may strike some strong headwinds and that I experienced that when I rode from LA to San Francisco three years ago.  They said had already experienced that.

Both their bike had Rholoff gears and carbon chains.  They said that the chains are really good.

I will have to look into getting one.

I decided to stay in Benbow for the day.  It was really hot.

 

Flickr Links

Brookings to Crescent City

https://flic.kr/s/aHskVDdmqr

Crescent City to Klamath

https://flic.kr/s/aHskVDeGKT

Klamath to Fortuna

https://flic.kr/s/aHskXi7Sg1

Avenue of the Giants and Benbow

https://flic.kr/s/aHskVsqAch

Garmin Links

Brookings

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1741521028

Crescent City

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1741521126

Scotia and Meyers Flat

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1747678621

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1747678642

 

Astoria to Coos Bay

Yachats

I  got off the bus in Astoria late in the  afternoon.  The place seemed a bit run down.  The transit centre was manned by a very helpful person who gave me advice on accommodation and catching buses further south down the coast.

I checked in to a motel about half kilometer from the motel.  I then headed out looking for a place to eat.  There was hardly anyone around.  I asked a jogger if there were any restaurants nearby.  She told me that there was a brewery pub a short walk away.

Brewery

The place is called the Buoy Brewery and it turned out to be really good.  The bar looked out over the bay.  It was a very spectacular view.

I ordered baked fish.  Over the meal, I got into conversation with another customer.  He told me that he was travelling in a RV.  He also told me that he had been to Canberra on numerous occasions working for the United States government.  I asked him what he did for the government.  He told me that he “couldn’t tell me”.  This was turning into a similar conversation to that I had had in Santa Monica.

We kept talking about travelling and retirement. He told me that he had retired at 55 and that his wife did not like to travel.  They have an agreement  whereby he can travel as much as he likes and she stays at home.

We agreed on one thing: it is better to travel as soon as you can.  It will only get more difficult as you get older.

The bloke also told me that he is thinking of buying a sea going trawler and sailing it to Australia and New Zealand.

Series of Buses to Newport

I woke up early the next morning and went to the transit centre where I caught the first of a series of buses down the coast to Newport.

There were parts of the trip where it would have been good to ride, however on balance this was a good part of the trip to take by bus.

It was late in the afternoon when I arrived in Newport.  I checked into a very ordinary motel run by an Indian bloke who was a bit of a Basil Faulty.

After settling in I walked towards the beach front to look for a place to eat.  The beach was very windswept.

Irish Pub

I found a quiet a nice Irish Pub back from Nye Beach.  They had a very limited menu including Guinness beef pie.  That turned out to be very tasty.

Heading to Yachats

In the morning, I headed out to look for a place to have breakfast. I have found finding places to get a decent breakfast quite difficult in the US.  Most places only serve cooked breakfast meals.  Rarely can you find places that serve muesli and fresh fruit.  I settled on a plate of hot oats and blueberries.

Bike Shop

After leaving the motel, I stopped off at a bike shop to pump up my tyres.  The blokes in a bike shop told me that the weather was about to turn nasty.  This included rain and strong wind from South.  This was really annoying to hear as I had expected that the prevailing winds would be from North.

After leaving the bike shop I rode along the beach to small park which has a very spectacular view of a bridge which not dissimilar to Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The ride along the 101 was quite good.  There was quite a lot of traffic including large trucks, however the verge on the road is  wide so it is not too dangerous.

I stopped in a small town called Waldport  There was a small drive by coffee shop that served a very good cappuccino.  It is not easy to get good coffee is many places in the US.

Next to the coffee shop there was a bike shop.  As it turned out the bike shop was a charity run by a group of volunteers.  I got into a conversation with the blokes in the bike shop.  They told me that they received the bikes by donation and repair them where possible,  and sell them.

They were very interested in my travels, particularly those in Europe.  They like many people I speak to, they  lamented about the difficulty of riding bicycles in the U.S.  They also warned me about the change in weather that was expected.

Yachats

It was a relatively short ride to the next town which is a great little place called Yachats.

I found a really nice little motel and checked in.  The owners, a middle aged couple, were very friendly and told me that they had only recently bought the place.  Previously, they had worked with very large hotels in Las Vegas and was a bit of a change to go from the hotel that could handle over 7000 guests to one that only had 12 rooms.

The Internet was really good so I took the opportunity to make a couple of Skype calls.

After a quick walk around the town, I settled into the local craft Brewery for couple of pints of IPA.  It was an interesting IPA, very light and bubbly.

The owner of the motel had recommended a fish restaurant as a place for a meal.  It turned out to be a very good recommendation.

That night, as predicted, the weather changed dramatically as a storm clouds and rain came in from the sea.

Leaving Yachats

It was still raining heavily as I left the town in the morning.  This part of the coast from Yachats to Florence is one of the most spectacular parts of the Oregon coast.

As I rode along the weather changed almost by the minute.  It would be pouring with rain one minute and then it would clear and the sun would shine.

Fortunately, the sun was out at some of the spectacular points along the road.  Check out the Flickr photographs.

Florence

After leaving the spectacular section, there is a very boring bit of the road leading into the town of Florence.  It was late in the afternoon when I arrived in Florence.  I had thought that I may be able to catch a bus from Florence further south of 5.20 p.m.  in the afternoon.  The bus was leaving from the City Hall.

I used Google maps and find City Hall.  It wasn’t obvious which building was the City Hall.  I asked a bloke walking in the street, “can point me to City Hall”?.  He responded, “you want a sink hole”?  I ended up having to spell CITY HALL  before he understood what I was saying.

As it turned out no bus arrived and I headed across the road to book into motel.  The receptionist in motel told me that the bus would not stop unless you have made a prior booking.  As we spoke the rain started fall really heavily and turned into hail.

I have to say that Florence Oregon  is a dismal place, however, I  was lucky to have stopped only  a short walk from the ‘old town’, which contains some nice restaurants and bars.  I ended up having quite a nice pasta meal in an Italian restaurant, followed by a couple of pints of pale ale in a bar.

Heading to Winchester

It was raining when I left Florence.  It was also fairly cold and the riding wasn’t much fun at all.

It was mid-afternoon when I arrived in Winchester Bay.  I checked Google for advice on accommodation and decided book into the Salmon Landing Motel.  It turned out to be really good.

Given that the buses only operate Monday to Friday, I decided to stay in Winchester Bay until Sunday morning before riding onto Coos Bay, where I planned to catch a bus heading towards Orford.  I had been told that part of the 101 is not very interesting.

Into Coos Bay

I left Winchester Bay around midday.  As I rode south the weather started to clear.  The road run parallel to the very large sand dunes next to the beach.  This area is very popular for all terrain vehicle (ATV) fanatics.

There is a rail line running of along the coast.  Unfortunately it is only used to carry timber.  It would be great for passengers.

I arrived in Coos Bay around 3.00 p.m.  and booked into the Motel 6.  It was basic but very clean.  I took the short walk into the main part of town and found a brewery which served good beer and food.

Flickr Links

Busing it to Newport

https://flic.kr/s/aHskWeZWuc

To Yachats

https://flic.kr/s/aHskZy96pc

Yachats

https://flic.kr/s/aHskZsR9Dy

Winchester Bay

https://flic.kr/s/aHskWqvMFv

Coos Bay

https://flic.kr/s/aHskZFbd2f

 

Garmin Links

 

Newport

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1726691659

Yachats

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1728383895

Florence

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1729795803

Winchester Bay

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1734163160

Seattle

Seattle

I spent my first morning in Seattle back at the Greyhound bus station trying to find the whereabouts of my bag.  As I said in my previous post, it was to take three days before the bag arrived.

In the afternoon, I walked around the downtown area of Seattle, including Pioneer Square and Pike Market.  This part of the city doesn’t seem to have changed much since my last visit which was back in 1979.  One thing I did notice was that the trams that used to run along the road next to the piers have gone.  These trams came from all round the world, including Melbourne.

Night with Friends

In the late afternoon, I returned to the hostel where I was picked up by the husband of a family that I knew in Sydney.  He is a senior executive with Boeing and the family lived in Sydney for over nine years.  One of their daughters was a friend of my daughter in went to the same school.

We drove out of the city to their houses which is situated on Lake Sammamish.

The house is very spectacular, and so is the view across the lake to snow covered mountains in the distance.

Before having dinner, my hosts took me on a boat ride along the lake.  It is a very pleasant place to live.

We had an excellent conversation over dinner, talking about Boeing and a range of other subjects, which of course included Trump.

I told my hosts about my visits to Seattle and the fact that I seemed to always be in the city when the weather was fine.

I first visited Seattle in July 1979 when I visited a girl that I had meet in London.  She was in London studying at the London School of Economics as part of her university course at Bellingham.

Over the years, I returned to the city a number of times to see her.  In all but one occasion the weather was fine and sunny.  This is amazing given the city is famous for its wet weather.

We talked about the changes that have occurred in Seattle over the past 30 years.  Back then the major employer was Boeing and essentially, Seattle was a ‘one company town’.  Of course Boeing is still a major employer, however companies like Microsoft, Amazon and Starbucks are major employers now.

My host’s son, who lives next door, took me into Seattle the next morning.  He is one of the many young people who are working in the IT sector.  He works for Amazon, and will be taking a posting to Australia to work  on their ‘Cloud’ product.

Tour of Boeing Assembly Plan

The next day, I took a trip the Boeing assembly plan which is located north of the city.

On the way to the plant the guide gave some background information to the history of Boeing and its founder William Boeing.  One the interesting facts he told us was that the Boeing soon after the establishment of the company was a vertically integrated airline operation.  The company made the planes and also operated them.  These made the company extremely profitable.  The government passed antitrust legislation that forced Boeing to split up.  He also told us that the company went very near to going bankrupt as a result of having to abandon its supersonic plane.  During this period, the number of employees was halved.  There were signs, posted around the city saying, “will that last person at Boeing please turn out the lights”.

After arriving at the plant, we spent some time in the information centre.  This contained a number of exhibits including jet engines made by Rolls Royce and GE and a flight simulator.

We left the information centre on a bus which took us to the assembly plan.  On the way, the guide told us that the building is the largest building by volume on the planet.

After we got off the bus, we were taken along a long corridor which runs under the floor of the plant.  We then boarded  a lift to which took us to the viewing platform which overlooks the area where the planes are assembled.

The first area we saw was where the 747 is assembled.  The scale of place is extraordinary.  There are thousands of workers in the building at any point in time.  However, as you look down you only see a few workers at any point.

We then moved on to the area of the plant where the new 787 Dreamliner plane is being assembled.  This is the first commercial plane to be made primarily with carbon fibre.  It is very light and is more efficient in terms of fuel usage compared to planes made with aluminum.

I have flown on 787 from the Gold Coast to Singapore on Scoot Airlines and was impressed.  It appeared to be a very good plane.

On the way back into the city I chatted with the driver.  We talked about the fact that the cost of airline travel has hardly changed over the past 30 years.  He told me he and his wife travel to Thailand every year and that they have been paying virtually the same price for the tickets over that period.

In the evening I headed back the Pike Market area, where I found another gastro pub and  had some excellent brown ale and a meal.  The craft beer in Seattle is excellent.

Back in the hostel, I chatted to some English girls who are studying at Calgary University as part of their British University studies.  One of the girls told me that her father was brought up in Sunderland.  I gave her a link to my father’s POW story.  I noticed that it had a lot of hits since then.

Bag Arrives

In the morning, I received a message from Greyhound that my bag had finally arrived in Seattle.  That was such a relief.  For a while there, I thought I had lost it for good.

I took the light rail to the bus station.  The bag contained most of my belongings including the bike seat and the tools that I needed to reassemble the bike.  Once the bike was reassembled, I headed back to the hostel.

Flight Museum

Next I took a bus out to the Museum of Flight which is located next to Boeing Field, south of the city.

This is a very impressive museum.  It is on both sides of the highway passing the field.  On one side there is a covered area.  This is where a number of planes are on display.  These include, a Concorde, Airforce One that was used John Kennedy and Lyndon Johnson, there is also B29 that dropped the bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

There is also a 787.  The volunteer guide told me that this was one of six test that were built.  It is possible that the plane could, however it this particular plane was known issues with the mounting of the wing to the fuselage.  Of course, this fault was corrected on the production planes.

The main part of the museum is on the other side of the road.  It contains a large number of exhibits including a replica of the Wright brothers biplane.

It also contains a number of fighter planes including some MIGs and a Phantom.  This is a seriously dangerous looking aircraft.  I recall chatting one of these planes up close when I was working the Department of Defence.  I was out on the airfield at Fairburn in Canberra when Phantom was going some take off and landing exercises.  The noise was extraordinary.

Museum of Pop Culture

Next morning, I walked from the hostel to the Seattle Space Needle, this was built in 1962 when Seattle hosted the World’s Fair.  It is still one of the major tourist attractions in the city.  In the park in which the space needle sits, there is a Museum of Pop Culture.  That was the reason for my visit.

The museum building itself is very interesting.  It was designed by Frank Gehry and features his trademark odd shapes and use of exotic materials.  This building is not as big or as impressive as some of the other buildings designed by him that I have seen, for example the one in Bilbao in Spain, however it this is still quite impressive.

The museum contains a number of interesting exhibits including one on Jimi Hendrix who was brought up in Seattle, before he moved to London and became a Rock Legend.

When I visited the museum there was a special exhibit on Star Trek. The exhibit points out that Star Trek was quite innovative and somewhat controversial in its day.  For example, it featured the first interracial kiss on television and featured Russians working with Americans during that time of the Cold War.

On the way back to the hostel I took an indirect route taking in some streets that I had not walked for on before.  This area is undergoing major change.  Buildings are being knocked down and been replaced with apartment blocks a new office buildings.  It is really becoming a trendy  place to live and companies like Amazon are moving into this area.

 Meeting with a Young Cousin

In the evening, I caught up with a young cousin who lives in London. She works for Microsoft and was visiting Seattle for a conference of the developers.  It was great to catch up with her and   her chatting about her job and what it is like to work for Microsoft.  She is a very interesting and clever woman.

Heading South

My original plan had been to travel from Seattle to Vancouver by ferry and start my ride from there.  However, due to the time I had lost as a result of the bag issue, I decided to skip going to Vancouver.

In fact, I realised that the ride San Francisco was probably going to take at least 25 days and I don’t have that much time.  I decided that I would take a train Kelso and the bus to Astoria.

After checking out of the hostel, I rode down to the Amtrak station in King St.  It is a very impressive station, with white marble floors and walls.

The Amtrak train was very comfortable.  However, an issue with Amtrak trains is that they are inevitably late.  This is due to the fact that they share the tracks with freight trains that are a much slower and as a result, delay the Amtrak trains.

Fortunately, despite being late, I was able to make the connection with the bus to Astoria.

Flickr Links

Boeing Plan

https://flic.kr/s/aHskW17VDe

Museum of Flight

https://flic.kr/s/aHskWtmjQf

Museum of Pop Culture

https://flic.kr/s/aHskUtUz2h

Other Seattle

https://flic.kr/s/aHskUmsakJ

https://flic.kr/s/aHskZ2ncLG

Los Angeles 2017

LA

I flew from Brisbane to Los Angeles. The Qantas flight was good.  The twelve hours flying time gives plenty of opportunity to sleep.

I landed in LA around 6.30 a.m. and took a shuttle to my hotel on Wiltshire Boulevard.  I had originally booked into a hostel, but it is being refurnished and I was transferred to a hotel owned by the same company.  The place turned out to be good.

 Jet Lag

Albeit that I had managed to get some sleep on the plane, I had mild jet lag.  The trick is to fall back into to a normal rhythm as soon as possible.  This meant staying awake until dark.

I went for a walk and caught  the Metro to Union Station to sort out my train travel.  Amtrak confirmed that my train to Seattle had been cancelled due to a freight train knocking out a bridge.  I had to look for alternatives. The flight were ridiculously expensive. I booked a Greyhound Bus ticket instead.

Pub

I had a meal in the Bounty Pub.  The meal was ordinary, however,  the conversations with the locals were interesting.  Trump isn’t popular in this pub.

Santa Monica

Next day I headed back into the Downtown area.  I recall that on my first visit in 1979, the downtown area was in serious decay.  On my last visit three years ago, the downtown was undergoing bit of a revival, will people moving into apartments and pubs and restaurants  opening. This is still happening at full steam.

I then caught the Expo train out to Santa Monica.

I really like Santa Monica.  I first went there in July 1979. On that visit, I happened on really good pub – The Ye Olde King’s Head. I visited that on subsequent visits to LA in 1983, 86 and 93.  I also went there on my last visit three years ago.

It is very popular with the UK expat community of which there are many in Santa Monica.

I got into a discussion with a bloke at the bar. He was doing a ‘Jack Nicholson’, wearing sunglasses indoors. He asked for the TV to turned to CNN and then got into a tirade about Trump. I asked him what he did for a living.  He said that he “couldn’t tell” me, beyond saying he “looked for people and he had just returned for the Philippines.

Dodgy Part of Town

The next day I went  back Downtown to visit the Greyhound station.  I wanted to confirm the arrangements for carrying the bike. The information on their website was somewhat confusing.  I also want see the bike boxes particularly by box would be able to fit my bike.

On the way to the bus station through a very rough part of town.  There were lots of homeless people living in tents ridge on the footpaths.  It wasn’t the sort of place that you would want  hang around.

As it turned out I got advice from there Greyhound people that I would able to use my Qantas box

Having sorted that out decided go up to Hollywood.  I am not sure why.  The place does nothing for me.

In the evening I had a chat with an old Caltex colleague who lives just south of LA.  Foolishly, I had neglected to forewarn him of my visit.  It was great to chat.  My colleague also gave me details of a mutual friend who also worked for Caltex and  is now living in France.  Hopefully I will be able to catch up with him when I am on in France in June or early July.

Leaving on a Greyhound

Next morning, I headed to a Public Storage place where I rented a locker the store my suitcase. As it turned out the locker was far bigger than I unexpected.

In the morning, I headed to Greyhound station using a shuttle bus operated by the hotel.  The  route took us through the downtown area. There is  lot of construction work going on downtown and it took ages to get through the congestion and into the bus station.

I checked in and waited to board the bus.

When it came to boarding the bus, it turned out that my Qantas flight box was bigger than the standard Greyhound box and would not fit into designated place for a bike.

I had to take the box to the other side of the bus to loaded it.  I left my bag  on the tarmac. When I returned to the other side of the bus, the bag wasn’t there and I assumed that it had been loaded by the baggage handler.

The bus and headed north up Interstate 5.  The road was very busy and despite having at least four lanes in each direction, the traffic was very congested.  We passed through vast areas of orange groves and vineyards.  This is agriculture on a major scale.

No Bag

It was late in the evening when we arrived in Sacramento.  At this stop we were required to change buses.  When I went to collect my bag it wasn’t there.  I had  a problem.

The staff at the  bus station told me that I would have to call the customer service centre.  The customer service centre turned out to be in the Philippines.  I was part way through the call when I had to board the new bus.

We headed off into the night.  I realized that I am far too old to travel on  night of buses.

Here were two more changes of buses before we finally arrived in Seattle.

After I had off loaded the bike I asked  Greyhound representative what I should do about recovering in my bag.  I told him about the issue of having to talk to people in of the Philippines.  He told me that it was a “joke that the customer service centre was here”.  He told me that he would give me the mobile number of someone and that he knew in the Los Angeles station.  I called the number.  The  bloke at the end of the line turned out to be very helpful.  After a few minutes, he came back to me and told me that he had found the bag.  That was such a relief.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, it took another three days before the bag arrived in Seattle.  At each point where the bus is changed on the way,  the bag was offloaded. Because no one claimed it, it was held over to next bus.

I left the bus station and caught the light rail into the downtown area of Seattle made my way to the hostel.

After checking in it headed across the road to a gastro pub where I had a couple of pints and a meal.

I was very pleased to be in Seattle.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHskULSA6w

https://flic.kr/s/aHskYV6qHb

Last Visit

https://billrider2013.com/2014/04/26/flying-to-los-angeles

To San Francisco

San Francisco

 

Monterey to San Francisco

I decided to stay an extra day in Monterey. The weather was great and I had the opportunity to watch the start of Stage 4 of The Tour of California.

This race has become a major race in the cycling calendar. While a number of the teams had their top riders competing in the Giro Italia (eg. Cadel Evans for BMC), the Sky Team had Bradley Wiggins riding in this race. The start was held in the main street. It was a bit of a carnival – I suspect not a patch on the Tour de France- but pretty good. I got some good pictures of Wiggins et al and the support vehicles.

In the afternoon I rode back towards Pebble Beach. The scenery is very impress will lots of seals and sea lions lounging on the beaches and rocks. This is great to see.

Inland through Salinas

I decided to head inland for a bit. The route took me through Salina and Castonville. This is a pretty bleak area. Check out the pictures. At least I know the location of the ‘Artichoke Capital of the World’.

Problem with the Rear Wheel

As I headed down the road I heard a loud ‘crack’ and the bike started to wobble. The thought ‘WTF’ was that. I hopped off the bike and looked down at the wheel. It had cracked and the outside of the rim was bent upwards. Of course the tyre was completely flat.

I started walking down the road until I ran into an exit. This led me to a Service Station. I asked the manager if there were any buses into Santa Cruz. He said there he was no aware of any. A customer, overhearing the conversation, said that he could give me a lift into Watsonville, which was about 10 miles away.

We loaded the bike and my panniers into the truck. The bloke dropped me off in Main St and I headed off looking for a place to stay. At an intersection, I ran into a cyclist and asked him it there was a bike shop in town. He told me that the one, and only, bike shop was two blocks away.

The owner, Hugh, was amazed at the state of the wheel. “I have never seen anything like that before”, was his comment.  He also said that “he had never worked on a wheel with a Rohloff before, but would like to give it a go”. I left the bike with him and headed to the nearby Best Western Motel.

In Watsonville things move a little slowly. The bike shop didn’t reopen until 11.00 am. When I turned up, Hugh’s assistant had half-finished the job, leaving the tricky bit to the man himself. I headed off for a Chinese meal. I should have tried Mexican.

The wheel was finally finished about 2.00 pm.   It seems that it was a pretty good job. It you ever find yourself in Watsonville CA and need something related to cycling, this is the place to go: http://www.watsonvillecyclery.com/

New Brighton State Park (lesson in USA geography, economics and politics)

Hugh from the bike shop gave me some tips for the rest of the trip to San Francisco. This included a great camping place – the New Brighton State Park. I headed there for the night.

Like of other State Parks I had stayed at, this New Brighton is great spot. After a meal and a nearby ‘Deli’ I returned to the park. I struck up a conversation with a fellow cyclist. This bloke is a Geography lecturer at California State University, currently on a sabbatical.   He had a lot to say about the current economic and political situation in the USA. I won’t attempt to describe his views here, but they were very interesting.

One point he did make was that the USA can be divided into 8 distinct regions that are as diverse as most separate countries. These include the ‘liberal North East’ and the very conservative ‘Deep South’. He said that many individuals migrate to the areas where they “ feel comfortable and they are with like-minded people”. He wouldn’t be surprised if “one day in the future”, some of these regions formally separate from the Union”.

Santa Cruz

Next day I headed in to Santa Cruz. I was bit of a disappointment. It is a tacky tourist town. However, I did find a great Italian restaurant for a late lunch.

I ended up deciding to stay the night and found myself in an overpriced motel. The place was near to capacity due to it being a Saturday and the running of a Half Marathon the next day. This was a classic case of ‘differential’ pricing.

To Pigeon Point

The route out of Santa Cruz took me along the coast. Part of the way was where the Half Marathon was being run. I was riding in the opposite duration to the runners. Judging by the speed they were running and their appearance, these were the stragglers. At least they were having a go.

Hugh from the bike shop told me about a Hostel at Pigeon Point, that was my destination for the night. He also told me about Brewery about two miles south of the Hostel. That was going to be where I was going to have a meal.

Young People with Interesting Jobs

Before I go to the Brewery, I can across a rather odd ‘café’ on the side of the road. It was part of an ‘organic’ farm, which grew among of things, lemons. The café served lemon pies and homemade lemonade. As I ate my pie, I got into conversations with a young German bloke and his American girlfriend.  They had recently moved to Silicon Valley (Palo Alto). They told me that “they were paying USD 3,200 per month for a tiny one bedroom flat.

The bloke told me that he was working for a company that is developing new batteries for cars and bikes. He said that “the world will be completely changed by the developments in battery technology in the next few years, and the changes will come quicker than most people expect”. The girl said she worked in the ‘Internet of Things’ space. Her company advises cities of the implementation of ‘smart technology’ to improve the efficiency of basic infrastructure, e.g. street lighting etc.

Interesting Stuff

I had my meal a couple of beers at the Brewery and headed to the Hostel. The accommodation was in the old lighthouse keepers cottages. It was basic, but a great place to stay.

Into San Francisco

I got up early to try and beat the wind.

The route into San Francisco took me through Half Moon Bay and then on to Pacifica. At one point I went through a long tunnel. I suspect that took heaps of klms off the trip.

I finally made it to the city outskirts and tried to follow the Route 85 Bike route signs into the down town area. I found following the signs impossible. I had to ask people for confirmation of the direction to the ‘downtown’ area. Virtually everyone said “it’s a long way” in a way that implied that they though it was too far to ride. I ended having to say that “I have ridden from Santa Monica, so distance is not an issue”.

I finally came across some cyclists, all of whom agreed that the bike route signs were confusing, but were able to direct me in the right direction.

I finally made it to the Hostel which is in a great location,  just one block way from Union Square.

Back in San Francisco for the first time since 1986.

Flickr Links

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYhtSJr

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYhzroL

 

Garmin Links

To Watsonville

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/501522990

To New Brighton State Park

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/501522980

To Pigeon Point

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/502535254

Into San Francisco

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/503213139