Western Australia

Coral Bay

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Coral Bay

Coral Bay

Getting to Coral Bay from Exmouth turned out to be a bit of a circus. The Integrity Buses do not run very frequently. I ended up taking a transfer bus from Exmouth to the Learmonth Airport. From there I took another transfer bus to Coral Bay.

The bus driver was a bit of a character. He and his wife are originally from Newcastle. They have been travelling around Australia for about 10 years staying in out of the way places like Coral Way. She is working in the Eco Tours Office in the town.

After checking into the Hostel, I headed off to the ‘pub’. There I ran into the bus driver and his wife. As you would expect, I ended up booking a place on the Eco Tours trip out to this part of Ningaloo Reef. It turned out to be a good choice.

Manta Ray

In the morning I headed off to take the trip out to the reef.

We boarded the boat and sailed a short distance before diving into the water. The coral of the reef is not like the coral of the Great Barrier Reef. It isn’t very colourful. However the fish are. The GoPro photos I took do not do them justice.

We then headed into the area of the Bay where the water is quite deep. This is where the Manta Rays live. This type of Manta Ray are M. alfridi or ‘resident’ Mantra Ray. They say in the one location are a smaller than the ones that migrate and mainly in the deeper waters of the ocean.

The Eco Tours and their competitors hire a bloke with a small plane to fly over the bay to spot the Mantas. This makes the trip a bit expensive, but at least it makes it more likely that you will see one. They claim that they have a 90% success rate.

The plane flew overhead and circled over the area where he spotted a Ray.

One of the guides wearing metre long flippers swam out to see the Ray. When she spotted it she singled us and 10 of us swam out to where she was. The Ray was about 20 metres below us. It was amazing see the thing ‘flying’ through the water. We were told to stay behind it. After about 10 minutes we stopped and the boat came up and collected us, and another group of 10 dived in for a look.

My group had a second chance to see the same Manta. This time she was swimming at bit closer. I got some reasonable photos of her with the GoPro

Reef Shark, Whales, Turtles and Lots of Colourful Fish

After seeing the Manta Ray we headed back to the reef.

This was a better spot. There was lots of colourful fish including a Reef Shark. In the distance we could see some Whales in the ocean of the other side of the reef.

As we headed back to shore, we went over area of sea grass. We could see lots of turtles. They like the sea grass. You are not permitted to swim in this part of the reef.

It was a really good day.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5pXsjT

Exmouth

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Exmouth

Exmouth

I caught the bus south from Broome at 8.00 p.m.

It is when you drive or take a bus that you really appreciate how big Western Australia is. Next stop was to be Exmouth at 1.00 p.m. next day. There are only two ‘major’ intervening stops – Port Headland and Karratha

The bus has two drivers that make the whole trip from Broome to Perth – leaving Thursday night and arriving Saturday morning. As one is driving, the other one tries to sleep.

We passed through Port Headland at 2.40 a.m. It would have been interesting to see the port operations. I am not sure if they cater for tourists.

Safari

Exmouth seemed to be very quiet. There weren’t many people in the hostel apart from myself and two Irish girls with whom I travelled from Broome.

The only activity on offer was the Ningaloo Safari. We booked into the tour.

A rather strange vehicle turned up and out popped a bloke who introduced himself as Dave. The banter with the Irish girls started almost immediately. We picked up four more customers and headed off.

Hills

The first bit of the tour was a bit lame. It involved driving up a hill. There we looked at a gorge. That was about it.

Dave made it a little more interesting when he told us about the use of the Exmouth area during WWII. At one time it was a US Submarine base and the Learmonth airport was used a as a RAAF airbase from 1942 to the end of the war.

On the way back into town, we passed the Marina. This is a new development which seems a bit old. Apparently it has been going to a few years, however it is only now that some houses are being built.

US Base

Next stop was the old US base established in 1963 to support the US Navy Radio Base. In fact, it was the establishment of the base that was the reason that the town of Exmouth was established.

The old US base is derelict. It was typical of the an American base overseas – a little American town down to the Ten Pin Bowling Alley, Base Ball Park and swimming pool. Apparently the cars used on the base were left hand drive and drove on the right hand side of the road in the town of Exmouth.

The Radio base has been taken over by the ADF. The towers are pretty impressive. Check the Wikipedia link.

Lighthouse

There is an old light near the Radio Base. Typical of many for the coast lighthouses along the Australian Coast (e.g. Byron Bay and Otway) the building of the tower was a major achievement. It involved building a tram line to haul the building materials and equipment for the tower and light. After the lighthouse was complete, the tram line continued to be used to transport supplies.

National Park

The main part of the tour was in the Cape Range National Park. This includes the Yardie Creek gorge. Check out the Flickr Link. It is pretty spectacular.

A really interest part of the boat trip on the creek was seeing the Rock Wallabies. These Wallabies are really small and incredibly agile. They are able to climb and descend the cliffs in the gorge with apparent ease.

Dive on the reef

In the last hour of the tours we went for a quick dive on the Ningaloo Reef.

Check out the Flickr Link GOPRO 0039 photo of reef shark.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5k9hfu

Wikipedia Link about the US Naval Base

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naval_Communication_Station_Harold_E._Holt

Horizontal Falls

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Horrizontal Falls

Horizontal Falls

A major attraction in the Kimberley region is the Horizontal Falls

I first heard about the falls from the parents of a school friend of my daughter. They had been on a cruise along the Kimberley coast from Darwin and called in to see the ‘falls’ which are in Talbot Bay which is North West from Broome.

My Canberra mate who is current driving around WA in his over the top Campervan has also seen the ‘falls’ and told me that they are a “must see”.

What Are They?

I have been lazy and have quoted from the web site copied below.

The Horizontal Falls are one of the most amazing natural features of the Kimberley region. The tidal waterfalls located deep within Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago are unlike any other waterfall, the water passes horizontally.

Although they are called waterfalls, this natural phenomenon actually consists of intense tidal currents hurtling through two narrow coastal gorges. Massive tidal movements create a waterfall effect as water banks up against one side of the narrow cliff passage, to be repeated again on the turning tide.

The twin gaps are part of the McLarty Ranges, which have two ridges running parallel approximately 300 metres apart. The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide and the second, most spectacular, gap is about 10 metres wide.

It is possible to drive boats through the two gaps to the bay behind. The tides in this area have a 10 metre variation which occurs over six and a half hours from low tide to high tide and vice versa. The effect of the waterfalls is created by the tide building up in front of the gaps faster than it can flow through them and there can be a four metre high waterfall between the bays.

Seaplane

My Canberra mate told me that the best way to see the ‘falls’ is on the tour that uses a seaplane. The company offers two versions of the tour. One is where you fly in and out by seaplane. The other is where you fly in and are driven back to Broome. I took the former.

The light out was due to take off at 6.00 a.m. Unfortunately the Broome airport was covered in a thick fog. This was surreal give the temperature was over 30c.

It took over an hour and a half for the fog to clear.

I was lucky to be given the co-pilot’s seat for the flight. We flew along the coast passing over the Coulomb Point Nature Reserve. I was wearing the head phones and could listen in to what the pilot was saying and the other communications with the Broome Traffic Control. I was surprised how busy it was. Hardly a minute passed without some communications with a plane or helicopter.  There are all sorts of aircraft flying in the area – big passenger planes, tourist and mining operators and lots of private planes.

As we approached King Sound, the pilot dropped to only 500 metres. The scenery was amazing. We cross over the small islands that are dotted off the coast of the mainland. The various shades of blue and green in water are really something to see.

After about an hour we made our descent into Talbot Bay.

The plane landed much faster than I expected.

Sharks

The plane pulled up at a large pontoon. We hopped off and we greeted by our guides for the ‘fall’s trip.

In the middle of the pontoon there is a gap with a cage divided into two. One side is open to the water in the bay. The other side is enclosed and can be entered into from the pontoon. The operators put fish into the open side to attract Lemon Sharks. The idea is to climb into the other side at look at the sharks through the cage.

Check out the Flickr Link. It is not as exciting as it sounds.

Through the Falls

After something to eat, we climbed into a speed boat and headed off to the falls.

As described above, the falls are a result of an imbalance in the water levels on either side of two ridges in the sea. There are two gaps through which the water rushes.

The speed boat makes to passes through the gaps.

No Fellini Using Go Pro

I bought a Gro Pro in San Francisco; however, I have only just got around to using it.   How slack is that??

The boat was moving fast and I had difficulty see what mode (photo, multi shot, or video) the GoPro was on.

I later discovered that I have taken videos of myself looking very confused.

Great Flight Over the Falls

After the boat trip we returned to the seaplane and took off.

The pilot made two passes over the falls. The Flickr photos say it all.

Video of Landing

I managed to take a great video of the plane landing in Broome.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4H2uEX

Web Link

http://www.kimberley-australia.com/kimberley-attractions/horizontal-falls/

Broome

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Broome

To Broome

I stayed in Perth for about a week. I will post about that when I return there.

On the advice of my journalist mate who lived in Perth for some time , I decided to fly to Broome. I guess his advice was obvious: “if you are in West Australia with heaps of time, see as much as you can”.

Off to Broome

I took the transit bus out to the airport. Perth Airport has 4 terminals. That is one less than London Heathrow. I am not sure how many airlines fly out of Perth, but I am certain it is far less than the number that fly from LHR.

Machine tells me to Speak to a Human

I went to check into QANTAS flight to Broome. The whole process is designed to be fully automated. I put my QANTAS card into the machine. It told me to “seek the advice of a customer service officer”. I was confused.   The only humans in sight were bearded blokes with tattoos and dressed in Hi Viz work clothes.

Suddenly a woman in a QANTAS uniform appeared. She said (not asked) what is your problem !!! I replied: “are you a customer service officer”? She said yes. I told her the machine told me to “seek your advice”.

She took my card and banged it into the machine. She looked at me at said”you haven’t been ticketed”.

I told her, “I have been ticketed many times, but obviously not by you” .

She told me, “I will have to call the ticketing office”.

I said, “call whoever you want, I just want to check in and board the plane”.

She chatted away to someone and pressed button on the machine. After sometime she gave me a piece of paper and walked me to the automated baggage check in machine. There she pressed more buttons and put my bag on the conveyer belt.

Don’t love you automation.

Lots of Planes

As I said above, Perth is a big airport. There are 4 terminals and there seem to be lots of gates with ‘air bridges’.

However, most of the planes are out on the tarmac and you have to get to them by bus. The ‘fly in, fly out’ system of the mining industry and construction work has the place working at capacity and more.

The bus to the plane to the plane, took longer than most Sydney or London commuter rides ( a big of hyperbole there).

Short Flight to Broome

It only took 3 hours to fly to Broome. Thank god for the tail wind and the fact the flight was only travelling over 60% of the State.

Hot as All F#@&K

Broome is a seriously hot place.

I walked from the airport to the Hostel. I had the room to myself and put the fan on to the highest speed. I thought the roof would lift off.

Cable Beach

In the morning, took the local bus out to Cable Beach. This is one of the ‘iconic’ Australian beaches.

I ended up staying there until sunset. This involved the camel ride and ‘the sunset’. Check out the Flickr photos.

Flickr Link

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5m2qNc